Archive for Nagahama

Shiga’s Top 10 festivals in April-May

April 11, 2013 Best of Shiga Prefecture, Festivals in Spring, Higashi-Omi, Hino, Koka, Nagahama, Omi-Hachiman, Otsu, Taga, Takashima, Yasu Comments Off
Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri

Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri, April 15

April is a great month. Soon after the onslaught of cherry blossoms, we have an onslaught of festivals (matsuri). This is the time to go out and celebrate the coming of spring, pray for good harvests, and see the traditional splendor of Shiga. The highest number of matsuri are held during these two months, especially during the string of national holidays in late April and early May called Golden Week. During the Golden Week holidays, Shiga has multiple festivals on the same day.

To make it easier to decide which ones to see, I’ve picked Shiga Prefecture’s Top 10 Festivals for April-May. I ranked them based on scale (number of participants, length of festival, etc.), grandioseness, cultural importance/significance, cultural perpetuation and practice for younger generations, uniqueness, and enjoyment by spectators.

1. Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri, Nagahama Hachiman Shrine, Nagahama, April 15
Deciding Shiga’s No. 1 spring festival was a toss-up between the Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri and Sanno-sai (No. 2 below). But I gave the edge to the Hikiyama Matsuri because it centers on passing on a traditional art to kids. Young boys undergo months-long rigorous training in voice and acting to put on a kabuki play during the festival. The festival has four ornate floats (hikiyama) with a small stage for authentic kabuki plays performed by grade school boys. Even if you cannot understand what they are saying, just looking at their makeup, costumes, and acting will delight. The kabuki performances start at the shrine at 10 am. Then the floats are pulled to other spots in central Nagahama where the boys perform again. By the evening, all the floats gather at the Otabisho across town for more revelry until 9:30 pm when it ends. Although it gets crowded in front of the float, you can usually see the kabuki actors because they are elevated on the float. My video | Google Map

Sanno-sai Festival, Hiyoshi Taisha

2. Sanno-sai Festival, Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine, Otsu, April 12-15
Held by Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine in western Otsu at the foot of Mt. Hiei. This is perhaps Shiga Prefecture’s largest festival in terms of participants and the number of events. Held over a few days, you can see diverse events and rituals like an evening torch procession, thunderous rocking of portable shrines, and even a boat procession on the lake. One thing I like is the joint cooperation of Shinto and Buddhist priests in the ceremonies. You can see and hear both Shinto priests and Tendai Buddhist priests from Enryakuji temple praying or chanting at the same ceremony during the festival. So it’s not entirely a Shinto festival. Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine was historically affiliated with Enryakuji temple until the state required that Shinto and Buddhism be separate organizations. It’s up to you to decide which day and what time to see the festival. Click on the link above to see my photos of the festival (taken on April 13-15) to decide what you want to see. I saw and photographed all the major festival events except on the first day when they brought down the portable shrine from a low mountain. If it’s one festival that wore me out after three days, it’s this one. My video | Google Map

3. Niu Chawan Matsuri, Niu Shrine, Yogo (Nagahama), once every several years on May 4
Another of my all-time favorite festivals. They have three wooden floats topped with lofty “balancing act” chawan bowl decorations. They also hold beautiful sacred dances by boys dressed as girls. A procession of colorful flower umbrella dancers also provides a colorful accent to the festival. It’s held deep in a mountain valley of Yogo in northern Nagahama so the whole area is lush and peaceful. The only problem is that the festival is held only once every 5-6 years. The last time it was held was in 2009. According to rumors, the festival will be held in May 2014, next year. My video | Google Map

Hino Matsuri floats at Umamioka Watamuki Shrine.

4. Hino Matsuri, Hino, May 3
Shiga has a good number of float festivals, but the grandest one in spring is the Hino Matsuri. It’s grand because they have as many as 16 ornate floats with large wooden wheels that they pull through the main streets of Hino town. Each float belongs to a specific neighborhood in Hino and they are decorated with elaborate tapestries, paper lanterns, and a homemade paper sculpture on the roof that changes every year. They also have side attractions like a portable shrine procession and ceremonies featuring a sacred dance. From the morning, the floats are pulled along the streets to gather at Umamioka Watamuki Shrine, the center of the action. They play festival music and show off their floats. If you have time, you should also visit Shakunage Gorge, famous for rhododendron growing in a scenic gorge. There are lovely nature walking paths. Buses run from Hino Station. My video | Google Map

Higashi-Omi Giant Kite Festival held on the last Sun. in May.

5. Higashi-Omi Giant Kite Festival (formerly Yokaichi Giant Kite Festival) (Odako Matsuri), Higashi-Omi, May 26 (last Sun. in May)
The giant kite, made of washi paper and a bamboo frame, measures about 13 meters by 12 meters (size of 100 tatami mats) and weighs 700 kg. It is a work of art with a distinct shape, cutouts, and paint job featuring a traditional design of a large kanji character and twin animals. The design is selected from entries from the public and a new giant kite with a new design is made every three years. The public is also invited to help build the new kite every three years during the summer. On the festival day, the kite is flown on a riverbank a few times. It usually doesn’t stay aloft for very long unless there are strong winds. It can even crash so they clear the whole area whenever they fly the kite. You can also sign up to pull the kite. I did it once and they run at full speed. Kind of scary because if you trip and fall, you might get trampled. From 2013, the festival site will be at the Fureai Undo Park in Notogawa. Free shuttle buses will run from Notogawa Station. After (or before) the festival, be sure to check out the Odako Kaikan Giant Kite museum. Shuttle buses run to the museum. My video | Google Map

Kenketo Matsuri in Tsuchiyama, Koka.

6. Kenketo Matsuri, Koka (Tsuchiyama), May 3
Held at Takigi Jinja Shrine (龍樹神社), Kenketo Odori is a dance performed by eight boys aged 7 to 12. First there’s a procession to the shrine, and the boys start dancing at the shrine at around 2 pm. The dance was originally started to ward off calamities. The boys wear tall peacock feathers on their heads. The dance is a National Intangible Folk Cultural Property. The festival has an interesting twist when the crowd rushes to the man (sometimes knocking him down) holding a flower basket to take all the flowers. To get to the shrine, get off Kibukawa Station (JR Kusatsu Line and Ohmi Railways) and catch the Aikuru Bus. Get off at Higashi Maeno. The shrine is a short walk toward the river. My video | Google Map

Shichikawa Matsuri, Takashima

Shichikawa Matsuri’s yakko-furi procession.

7. Shichikawa Matsuri, Takashima, May 4
The largest festival in western Shiga is held at Oarahiko Shrine. It features a yakko-furi (samurai laborers) procession, yabusame horse runs, and portable shrine procession. The shrine is nearest to Shin-Asahi Station (JR Kosei Line). If it’s too far to walk, you can rent a bicycle at the train station. My video | Google Map

Ayame girls at Hyozu Matsuri.

8. Hyozu Matsuri, Hyozu Taisha Shrine, Yasu, May 5
I call this Shiga’s best portable shrine festival. Over 35 portable srhines (mikoshi) are carried around Hyozu Taisha Shrine in a very lively and gregarious style. Two of the mikoshi are carried by all women called “Ayame,” meaning iris flowers. They wear colorful happi coats to carry the mikoshi. The only thing is that the gravel path can kick up dust. Best to watch the festival from upwind. A few foreigners also participate. It starts in the morning and ends in mid-afternoon.  My video | Google Map

9. Hachiman Matsuri, Himure Hachimangu Shrine, Omi-Hachiman, April 14
Shiga’s biggest fire festival featuring several tall straw torches (as high as 10 meters) that are lit from 8 pm. If you have time during the day, you should come and look at the torches which are great works of art. The festival is prayer for an abundant harvest. They light the torches one by one. This festival is usually billed together with the Sagicho Matsuri another fire festival held in March. Sagicho Matsuri is still my favorite festival in Omi-Hachiman. My video | Google Map

10. Taga Matsuri, Taga Taisha Shrine, Taga, April 22
If you like horses and traditional costumes, see this festival. They have a long procession featuring Shinto priests, children in costume, women warriors, and more people on 40 horses. A total of 500 people are in the procession. There is a morning procession leaving Taga Taisha at 10:30 am for Totonomiya Shrine deep in Taga’s countryside, and an afternoon (main) procession leaving Taga Taisha at 2 pm for the Otabisho, a short distance away from Taga Taisha. My video | Google Map

For other spring festivals in Shiga, see my previous posts: April 2012 | May 2011 | May 2010 | 2009 Chawan Matsuri

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Shiga’s Top 5 cherry blossom spots

March 24, 2013 Best of Shiga Prefecture, Festivals in Spring, Hikone, Nagahama, Omi-Hachiman, Otsu, Takashima Comments Off

Hikone Castle, Shiga’s No. 1 cherry blossom spot.

Cherry blossoms are blooming earlier than usual this year. We’ve been having warm days during the first half of March. According to the cherry blossom forecast, the flowers should be in full bloom in Shiga during the second week of April. Note that they bloom later in northern Shiga (Takashima and Nagahama) than in southern Shiga (Otsu). This year I’ve decided to rank Shiga’s top cherry blossom spots. Here are my Top 5 favorite sakura spots in Shiga (click on the links or image to see more photos):

1. Hikone Castle – Coming at No. 1 is Hikone Castle. Although Hikone Castle is not one of the 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots of Japan (according to the Japan Cherry Blossom Association, I think it’s Shiga’s prettiest and most photogenic. It has an awful lot of cherry blossom trees almost everywhere amid the dramatic backdrop of the castle, white walls, and moats. I found so many varied views and great camera angles for shooting cherry blossoms here. You can see cherries on the big stone walls, along the moats, and next to the main castle tower. Culturally and historically, cherry blossoms best match a castle (especially one that is a National Treasure, another reason why I rank it No. 1), a symbol of the samurai whose life was as fleeting as the sakura. Hikone Castle is easily accessible from Hikone Station. Google map.

Kaizu-Osaki is nice but watch out for the cars.

2. Kaizu-Osaki, Takashima - Kaizu-Osaki has cherry trees lining the northern shore of Lake Biwa for a few kilometers. The blue lake water and Chikubushima island provide a very Shiga-esque backdrop for the cherries. It’s one of Japan’s 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots, and I would rank it as Shiga’s No. 1 sakura spot if it weren’t for the hazardous viewing conditions. Kaizu-Osaki has a narrow and hazardous lakeshore road (with no sidewalk) right next to the shoreline trees. During the peak period, there are just too many cars passing by, squeezing out pedestrians and polluting the air. There is a short pedestrian path and small park at the beginning if you go from Makino Station, but it doesn’t go to the main part of the trees. Since there is no sidewalk and you are walking on the road, you always have to be on guard for cars. Not recommended for families with young kids, especially on weekends. Also, the tunnels are dark and very narrow (no sidewalks). Bring a flashlight so the cars can see you walking or riding your bicycle inside the tunnel. If you have a car, note that there is very little parking. Shuttle buses run infrequently from train stations (most people walk from Makino Station). I recommend renting a bicycle at Makino Station (at the tourist info office) and cycling to Kaizu-Osaki. If you have the time and energy, bicycling from Makino Station to Nagahara Station (or vice versa) along the lake would be very scenic. You can return the bicycle at either station. And oh, beware of wild monkeys. Best not to carry a plastic bag, etc., that the monkeys may think contains food. Google Map

View from top of Nagahama Castle.

3. Nagahama Castle and Hokoen Park
Another photogenic backdrop with a huge cluster of cherry blossoms. Be sure to go up to the castle tower’s lookout deck (admission charged to enter the castle museum) to see the cherry blossoms surrounding the castle. Breathtaking. One of Japan’s 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots (there’s a monument saying so) and a major spot for hanami flower-viewing picnics. They have areas for picnicking as well as areas to just stroll under the cherries. Nagahama Castle is in the lakeside Hokoen Park near Nagahama Station. Google Map

Miidera’s Kondo main hall (National Treasure) and sakura.

4. Miidera temple and Biwako Canal, Otsu
There’s a great synergy between Biwako (Lake Biwa) Canal and Miidera temple during cherry blossom season. Biwako Canal supplies water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto. From Miidera Station (Keihan Line), you can’t miss it. It’s lined with many cherry trees, but it’s fenced off so it’s see but don’t touch. You’d think that they should allow rowboating in the canal when the flowers are in bloom. But if you look closely, you will notice a pretty fast current which would be dangerous for rowers. In the old days about a century ago after the canal was built, they had boats going all the way through canal to Kyoto. After walking along the canal, turn right and walk to the sprawling Miidera temple. They have cherry trees here and there providing a great accent to the old temple buildings (including a few National Treasures). There’s also a great lookout point on a hill giving great views of Otsu (concrete jungle) and the lake. They also light up the trees at night as they do at Biwako Canal. Beautiful and serene. Google Map

Hachiman-bori canal.

5. Hachiman-bori, Omi-Hachiman – Hachiman-bori canal has a long canopy of sakura trees along this scenic moat. The moat and white-walled traditional buildings make it photogenic, fit for shooting a samurai movie. It’s not so crowded either so you can enjoy a laid-back atmosphere while walking on a nice sidewalk or path along the moat. There are also moat boat rides starting near the Kawara Tile Museum. After seeing the flowers, you have the option to see numerous other nearby sights such as Hachiman-yama (via ropeway), Himure Hachimangu Shrine, Kawara Roof Tile Museum, Hakuunkan, Omi-shonin merchant homes on Shinmachi-dori, and buildings by William Merrell Vories. There is much more than just cherry blossoms which is my reason to include Hachiman-bori among the Top Five. Google Map

So, the places above are where I would show a first-time visitor wanting to see cherry blossoms in Shiga. I selected them based on Shiga’s unique beauty or scenery, easy accessibility, and sightseeing value.

To see the current blooming condition, see the Weather News Sakura page for Shiga. Starting with brown that indicates buds, the markers show warmer colors until red (full bloom) indicating how far the flowers have bloomed right now.

This is off-topic, but if you really love cherry blossoms, I highly recommend visiting the Tohoku region (Fukushima, Yamagata, Miyagi, Iwate, etc.). The cherry trees there are huge and look very distinguished, like giant bonsai. The tree trunks are really thick and they make the skinny cherry trees in Tokyo, Shiga, Kyoto, etc., look like baby trees.

Enjoy the spring.

Essential Vocabulary

  • sakura さくら or 桜 - Cherry blossom and Japan’s national symbol and flower. By far, it is the most celebrated flower in Japan.
  • tsubomi つぼみ – Flower buds.
  • shichibu-zaki 七分咲き – Cherry blossoms in 70% bloom which is right before they reach full bloom. News reports consider 80% bloom to be full bloom (mankai).
  • sakura zensen 桜前線 – Cherry blossom front as they bloom across Japan from Okinawa to Hokkaido.
  • kaika 開花 – Flowers started blooming. This is about a week before the tree reaches full bloom.
  • mankai 満開 – Full bloom. You will hear this on the news often.
  • hayasaki 早咲き – Early-blooming flowers. A few varieties of cherry blossoms bloom earlier than usual.
  • hanami or ohanami 花見 – Flower-viewing picnic (often with alcohol) under the cherry blossoms at a park. The most common way to celebrate spring under the flowers and commonly seen in the news. Hanami picnics are usually not allowed in shrines and temples.
  • sakura matsuri さくらまつり or 桜祭り- Cherry blossom festival. Not a religious festival, but can take the form of various events and stage entertainment.
  • Somei Yoshino 染井吉野 - The most common and coveted species of cherry blossoms whose light pink (almost white) flowers bloom in fluffy bunches on the tree.
  • yo-zakura 夜桜 – Cherry blossoms lit up at night. Some temples and parks light up the flowers at night.
  • shidare-zakura しだれ桜 or 枝垂桜 - Weeping cherry blossoms with long, hanging branches of flowers.
  • Sakura Meisho さくら名所 – Famous cherry blossom spot. It is most often a castle, public park, garden, shrine/temple, or riverside.
  • Sakura, Sakura さくら さくら- Famous folk song about cherry blossoms.
  • chiru, chitta 散る、散った – Flowers fell off the tree. Happens a few days after full bloom when the petals fall like pink snow.
  • sakura fubuki さくら吹雪 – Swirling cherry blossom petals. Occurs when the wind blows off the flower petals, creating a pink snow.
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Plum blossoms in Shiga Prefecture

February 20, 2013 Aisho, Festivals in Winter, Maibara, Nagahama, Otsu, Yasu Comments Off

Nagahama Hokoen Park plum blossoms.

Plum blossoms, called ume (梅) in Japanese, have absolutely the sweetest and most pacifying fragrance of all the flowers in Japan. Whenever you see plum blossoms, put your nose right next to the flower and smell. It will sooth your soul. There are many varieties of plum blossoms, but they basically white, pink, or red and each color smells differently. The white ones have the most dainty smell, while the red ones have a stronger and more concentrated sweet smell.

Plum blossoms have been an intricate part of Japanese culture, art, and aesthetics for centuries. The term shochikubai (松竹梅), meaning pine, bamboo, and plum blossoms, is an auspicious and favorite aesthetic concept in Japan that you can find on folding screens, sliding fusuma doors, and Japanese paintings. In my bedroom in Shiga, I have hand-painted fusuma on two sides of the room with beautiful paintings of shochikubai. My dad had excellent taste when he bought them in Hikone before I was born. I have treasured them ever since I became old enough to appreciate them. Sadly, they don’t make them like that anymore, at least at affordable prices.

In most parts of Japan, plum blossoms bloom in Feb. and March. In Hokkaido, they bloom in May, at the same time as cherry blossoms. When they reach full bloom depends on how cold/warm the winter is. The colder it is, the later they bloom.

Although Shiga does not have huge plum blossom groves like in Minabe, Wakayama; Kairakuen Garden in Mito (Ibaraki Prefecture); or Ome in Tokyo, Shiga has a few good plum groves called bairin (梅林) or plum gardens (baien 梅園) and plum blossom bonsai displays called bonbaiten (盆梅展).

Nagahama Hokoen Park 豊公園
Although Hokoen Park is most famous for cherry blossoms, it also has a decent number of plum trees. Great place to photograph them with Nagahama Castle in the background (photo above). They bloom in March. Near JR Nahagama Station. Google Map

Nagahama Bonbaiten in Keiunkan.

Nagahama Bonbaiten 長浜盆梅展
This is perhaps Shiga’s most famous plum blossom bonsai exhibition, held annually for 62 years since 1952. The venue is the stately Keiunkan (慶雲館), a Japanese-style former guesthouse originally built in 1887 to accommodate Emperor Meiji when he visited Nagahama. It’s near JR Nagahama Station. They have 90 bonsai trees on display, including one that is almost 3 meters tall or 400 years old. Don’t touch and try to smell these prized trees. Nagahama also has another bonbaiten in Azai. Until March 10, 2013. Hours: 9 am – 5 pm, Admission: 500 yen (200 yen for high school and younger) Google Map

Kamo-no-sato Bonbaiten, Maibara 鴨の里盆梅展
Held in Green Park Santo (グリーンパーク山東), a large recreational park in Maibara. Inside the Spark Santo hall (すぱーく山東) are about 120 bonsai plum trees raised by over 30 devoted growers. They also have an orchid show at the same time. Near JR Omi-Nagaoka Station. Until March 10, 2013. Hours: 9:30 am – 5 pm (enter by 4:30 pm), Admission: 400 yen (200 yen for high school and younger, free for elementary schoolers) Google Map

Omi-Fuji Karyoku Koen Park (Omi-Fuji Green Acres), Yasu 近江富士花緑公園
Sandwiched between the foot of Mt. Mikami and Kibogaoka Bunka Park, Omi-Fuji Karyoku Koen Park (also called Omi-Fuji Green Acres) is about flowers and greenery, including plum and cherry blossoms. They have a blog showing the progress of their plum blossoms blooming. Buses from JR Yasu Station go to Kibogaoka Bunka Koen Park’s Kibogaoka Nishi Gate from which you can walk to the park. Hours: 9 am – 5 pm. Google Map

Statue of Saint Shinran in front of the plum tree he planted at Homanji temple in Echigawa, Aisho.

Homanji temple, Aisho 宝満寺
This temple in Echigawa has a historically significant plum tree in front of the Hondo main hall. While traveling, Saint Shinran, founder of the Jodo Shinshu Buddhist Sect, was unable to cross the Echigawa River due to flooding. So he stayed at this temple temporarily. During that time, he planted a plum tree which bloom red plum blossoms. Near Ohmi Railways Echigawa Station. Google Map

Plum blossoms at Ishiyama-dera temple. Smell the different varieties.

Ishiyama-dera, Otsu 石山寺
Ishiyama temple has an impressive 400 plum trees in three hillside plum groves. Since there is a variety of plums, there’s a good chance of seeing at least a few in full bloom in Feb. or March. They have a blog showing how much the plums are blooming. Ishiyama-dera also has an indoor plum tree ikebana (Mishogoryu School 未生御流) exhibition called Ume Tsukushi-ten (梅つくし展) until March 18, 2013 in one of their temple buildings called Myoo-in (明王院). This indoor exhibition is free if you have paid the temple admission fee. Near JR Ishiyama Station and Keihan Ishiyama-dera Station. Hours: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm (enter by 4 pm), Temple admission: 500 yen Google Map

Sakamoto Bonbaiten, Otsu 坂本盆梅展
I’ve never seen this, but it looks worthwhile. About 50 small and medium-size plum blossom bonsai trees are exhibited in the noted garden of Kyu-Chikurin-in (旧竹林院) in the temple town of Sakamoto. Near Sakamoto Station on the Keihan Ishiyama-Sakamoto Line. Peak period is from mid- to late Feb. Until March 3, 2013. Hours: 9 am – 5 pm (enter by 4:30 pm), Admission: 310 yen (150 yen for kids) Google Map

 

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Omi gods and buddhas religious art exhibition in Tokyo

October 22, 2012 Art in Shiga Prefecture, Konan, Maibara, Nagahama, Omi-Hachiman, Otsu, Shiga/Omi Brand Comments Off

Went to Mitsui Memorial Museum in Nihonbashi, Tokyo to see an exhibition of religious art from Shiga Prefecture. It was excellent. Buddha statues, mandalas, bells, scrolls, etc., from many of the major Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in Shiga were displayed, including two National Treasures and many Important Cultural Properties. Many of these things we normally cannot see even when we visit the temple/shrine. The exhibition ends on Nov. 25, 2012. Admission is 1,200 yen for adults. English captions are provided.

Some images of the pieces exhibited: http://www.mitsui-museum.jp/exhibition/index.html

English info: http://www.mitsui-museum.jp/english/english.html

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Nagahama Sengoku Taiga Furusato-haku Expo

May 29, 2012 Nagahama Comments Off

Mitsunari-kun, official mascot of the expo.

As I mentioned earlier, Nagahama is holding another feudal history expo this year called Nagahama Sengoku Taiga Furusato-haku (長浜・戦国大河ふるさと博) (Nagahama Warring States Hometown Expo) from March 24 to Dec. 2, 2012. This is their followup to last year’s Go and Azai Sisters Expo held in conjunction with last year’s year-long NHK Taiga Drama Go – Sengoku no Himetachi. I finally went to see this year’s expo in early May.

Compared to last year’s expo, I found a few new (and old) things. Last year, they focused on the NHK Taiga Drama characters and Odani Castle. This year, the focus is on the Battle of Shizugatake and the Battle of Anegawa with side attractions Odani Castle and Chikubushima island. Like last year, there are a few small pavilions, shuttle buses going to expo attractions, gift shops, an official mascot, and human guides to explain things. And like last year, nothing is in English. Expo organizers either don’t have the budget for foreign language translations or they are not aware of how popular Japanese feudal characters are outside Japan, especially in anime, manga, and video games. The Otsu-centric Biwako Visitors Bureau also has absolutely no foreign-language information about this expo, as of this writing.

kinomoto-kan

Kinomoto Pavilion.

What’s totally new is the main expo pavilion in Kinomoto called Sengoku Taiga Kinomoto-kan (戦国大河きのもと館). A short walk from JR Kinomoto Station, the pavilion (in a former bank building) has exhibits centering on the Battle of Shizugatake, a pivotal battle in May 1583 between Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Shibata Katsuie who lost. Hideyoshi’s victory solidified his claim to succeed the assassinated Oda Nobunaga as Japan’s most powerful warlord. There are pavilion guides who explain about the exhibits and battle. Admission is 300 yen.

Mt. Shizugatake is part of the Kinomoto expo site and it is one of Shiga’s must-see sights. A chair lift takes you to the top for splendid views of Lake Biwa and Lake Yogo. There’s also a samurai monument memorializing the Battle of Shizugatake. If you have a few hours to spare, you can also hike down to Lake Yogo and catch the train back from Yogo Station. JR Kinomoto Station has shuttle buses going to Mt. Shizugatake every 30 min. from 9:45 am to 4:15 pm. Round trip bus fare is 300 yen.

If you plan to visit both the Kinomoto Pavilion and Mt. Shizugatake, buy the Kinomoto set ticket for 1,000 yen which includes admission to the Kinomoto Pavilion, roundtrip shuttle bus from Kinomoto Station to Mt. Shizugatake, and roundtrip chair lift on Mt. Shizugatake. Otherwise, the roundtrip bus fare will be 300 yen, chair lift 760 yen, and Kinomoto Pavilion admission 300 yen. (Half price for kids up to junior high school.) While in Kinomoto, also stop by to see the Kinomoto Jizo-in temple with its giant Jizo statue.

azai-kan

Azai Folk History Museum is the Azai Pavilion.

The second pavilion is the Azai Pavilion which is actually the Azai Folk History Museum (Azai Rekishi Minzoku Shiryokan 浅井歴史民俗資料館), a museum complex of two thatched-roof houses and a modern museum surrounding a small Japanese garden. The modern museum has exhibits on the Battle of Anegawa and the attack on Odani Castle when Ichi escaped with her three daughters (the Azai sister trio). Note that this museum complex is a permanent facility so it will still remain after the expo ends. It has been around for years and worth a visit. Museum admission is 300 yen.

The third pavilion is in central Nagahama across from the Nagahama Hikiyama Festival Museum, a short walk from Nagahama Station. The Nagahama Pavilion shows the history of the NHK Taiga Drama series over the last 50 years. It’s in the same space as last year’s Go and Azai Sisters Expo’s Nagahama Pavilion with almost the same kind of exhibits with kimono, samurai armor, and a mini theater showing clips from NHK Taiga Dramas. Pavilion admission is 300 yen. If you want to also see the Hikiyama Museum (mainly festival floats), it’s 600 yen for admission to both. The expo pavilions are open from 9 am to 5 pm (enter by 4:30 pm).

Shizugatake

Great view of Lake Biwa from Mt. Shizugatake. Click on image to see more photos of Mt. Shizugatake.

Besides the pavilions, Mt. Shizugatake, Chikubushima island, and Odani Castle are also official expo sites. If you’ve been there already, you don’t really need to visit them during the expo. Otherwise, these sites are a must-see for history buffs. Visiting Mt. Shizugatake and Odani Castle during the expo is very convenient because shuttle buses run much more frequently than usual.

Odani Castle, home of Azai Nagamasa, wife Ichi (Oichi), and their three daughters Chacha, Hatsu, and Go (Azai sister trio), was the star of last year’s expo. By including it in this year’s expo, they continue to provide convenient shuttle buses from Nagahama Station (west side) running every 30 min. or so from 9:20 am to 4:40 pm on weekends (on weekdays, every 40 min. from 9:40 am to 4:10 pm). Bus fare is 500 yen for an all-day pass.

What’s new from last year are expanded tours of Odani Castle. Last year, the Odani Castle guided tours took you only to the Honmaru mound and back. This year, they offer longer optional tours which can take you as far as the summit of Mt. Odani (elevation 495 meters) and even 5-hour hikes to visit all the castle ruins along the mountain ridges or hike down to the adjacent valley where the castle lord and samurai normally lived. Even the basic tour has been slightly expanded to include visits to the Akao Yashiki residence site where Azai Nagamasa committed seppuku and to Nakamaru Toraguchi, a ravine right behind the Honmaru mound.

The basic tour (基本コース) takes 100 min. including roundtrip bus ride and costs 500 yen. The basic tours start at 9:30 am, 11 am, 12:30 pm, and 2 pm from the Sengoku Guide Station (which served as the Odani pavilion last year). There’s an additional tour at 3:30 pm from July 21 to Aug. 31. First you have to take the shuttle bus from Nagahama Station to get to the Sengoku Guide Station at the foot of Mt. Odani. Then take another bus (500 yen roundtrip) at the Sengoku Guide Station to go almost halfway up Mt. Odani taking about 5-10 min. They will take you to the Honmaru mound and back, an easy walk.

There are four Optional tours which require reservations by phone and at least five people in a tour group. If you don’t have five people, you could join another group going at the same time. Call and make reservations with the Sengoku Guide Station (phone: 0749-78-0300). The basic tours do not require reservations. The castle tour guides are Japanese-speaking only.

Here are the Optional tours (オプションコース) offered. They start at different times from the basic tours. To the cost, add 500 yen for the shuttle bus (roundtrip) to go up Mt. Odani from Sengoku Guide Station office at the foot of Mt. Odani.

  • Course A (Aコース): This guided tour goes beyond the Honmaru mound up to the Sanno-maru (山王丸). An easy hike and I recommend this tour if you have the time. The tour is 2.5 hours and 500 yen.
  • Course B: This guided tour goes up to Sanno-maru, then down to Shimizu Valley below before returning to the Sengoku Guide Station. In the valley, there are only stone markers showing the former sites of the castle palace, etc. The tour is 2.5 hours and 1000 yen.
  • Course C: This guided tour takes you to the summit of Mt. Odani (elevation 495 meters) and to the opposite mountain ridge to see more castle ruins. For hardcore castle fans. The tour is 5 hours and 1500 yen.
  • Course D: This guided tour takes you to the summit of Mt. Odani (elevation 495 meters), then down to Shimizu Valley. The tour is 5 hours and 1500 yen.

Map of Odani Castle and hiking paths. Guided tours start from the red "You are here" label on the right (現在地).

It’s possible to hike up Mt. Odani from the foot for free on your own, but I recommend taking the bus up and going with a guide (Japanese-speaking only). If you hike up on your own, be sure to follow the road and regular hiking path. Don’t enter any blocked-off path, etc. You shouldn’t wear high heels or slippers since there are gravel and rocky slopes. The basic tour doesn’t require hiking gear, but the longer optional tours require hiking shoes. There are no vending machines on Mt. Odani so bring our own food and drinks. In summer, there will be lots of flying bugs so a paper fan will come in handy.

shuttle bus

Central Nagahama shuttle bus route: Nagahama Station --> Nagahama Pavilion --> Kunitomo Gun Museum --> Azai Pavilion --> Sengoku Guide Station (foot of Odani Castle) --> Gift shops --> Nagahama Pavilion --> Nagahama Station

To visit Chikubushima, just walk 15 min. (or take a taxi) to Nagahama Port from Nagahama Station. The boat fare is 2,980 yen roundtrip and admission to Chikubushma is 400 yen. You don’t have to visit it during the expo since it won’t go away, but it is one of Shiga’s major sights.

Although the expo is not as big or popular as last year’s, it’s a decent effort to promote tourism. One vital element is the public transportation to the pavilions and sites. There are three separate shuttle bus lines for the expo. Each one charges a separate bus fare. There is no bus pass good on all three shuttle bus lines. The shuttle bus in Kinomoto (called Shichihon-yari Bus 七本槍バス) runs between JR Kinomoto Station and Mt. Shizugatake. The main shuttle bus (called Sengoku Bus 戦国バス) runs in central Nagahama from JR Nagahama Station to the Azai Pavilion (Azai Folk History Museum) and Sengoku Guide Station at the foot of Mt. Odani. The third shuttle bus line runs between the Sengoku Guide Station at the foot of Mt. Odani and the Bansho (番所) area almost halfway up Mt. Odani from where you can walk/hike to see the castle ruins. Also, the bus going up Mt. Odani will not run during June 1 to July 20 and on foul weather days. The exact shuttle bus schedule in Japanese is here.

There is no bus connecting Kinomoto and central Nagahama. You have to travel by train between Kinomoto and Nagahama Stations.

I’m still puzzled as to why they did not include the Ishida Mitsunari Birthplace and the Battle of Anegawa Site on the shuttle bus route. After all, the expo focuses on Nagahama-native Mitsunari (official mascot is Mitsunari-kun) as well as the Battle of Anegawa. However, these sites are still accessible by local buses from Nagahama Station. Nagahama Castle, a short walk from Nagahama Station, is not part of the expo either.

More photos of the expo here. (Or click on an image in this post.)

Official site here (in Japanese).

The shuttle bus from Nagahama Station makes a stop here for you to shop at gift shops. This was the main pavilion (Azai–Go no Drama-kan 浅井・江のドラマ館) at last year's expo. Now a gift and produce shop. Another gift shop next to this has the Go and Azai Sisters Memorial Hall exhibiting mementos from last year's expo. Click on image to see more expo photos.

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