Archive for Otsu

Shiga’s Top 10 festivals in April-May

April 11, 2013 Best of Shiga Prefecture, Festivals in Spring, Higashi-Omi, Hino, Koka, Nagahama, Omi-Hachiman, Otsu, Taga, Takashima, Yasu Comments Off
Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri

Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri, April 15

April is a great month. Soon after the onslaught of cherry blossoms, we have an onslaught of festivals (matsuri). This is the time to go out and celebrate the coming of spring, pray for good harvests, and see the traditional splendor of Shiga. The highest number of matsuri are held during these two months, especially during the string of national holidays in late April and early May called Golden Week. During the Golden Week holidays, Shiga has multiple festivals on the same day.

To make it easier to decide which ones to see, I’ve picked Shiga Prefecture’s Top 10 Festivals for April-May. I ranked them based on scale (number of participants, length of festival, etc.), grandioseness, cultural importance/significance, cultural perpetuation and practice for younger generations, uniqueness, and enjoyment by spectators.

1. Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri, Nagahama Hachiman Shrine, Nagahama, April 15
Deciding Shiga’s No. 1 spring festival was a toss-up between the Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri and Sanno-sai (No. 2 below). But I gave the edge to the Hikiyama Matsuri because it centers on passing on a traditional art to kids. Young boys undergo months-long rigorous training in voice and acting to put on a kabuki play during the festival. The festival has four ornate floats (hikiyama) with a small stage for authentic kabuki plays performed by grade school boys. Even if you cannot understand what they are saying, just looking at their makeup, costumes, and acting will delight. The kabuki performances start at the shrine at 10 am. Then the floats are pulled to other spots in central Nagahama where the boys perform again. By the evening, all the floats gather at the Otabisho across town for more revelry until 9:30 pm when it ends. Although it gets crowded in front of the float, you can usually see the kabuki actors because they are elevated on the float. My video | Google Map

Sanno-sai Festival, Hiyoshi Taisha

2. Sanno-sai Festival, Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine, Otsu, April 12-15
Held by Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine in western Otsu at the foot of Mt. Hiei. This is perhaps Shiga Prefecture’s largest festival in terms of participants and the number of events. Held over a few days, you can see diverse events and rituals like an evening torch procession, thunderous rocking of portable shrines, and even a boat procession on the lake. One thing I like is the joint cooperation of Shinto and Buddhist priests in the ceremonies. You can see and hear both Shinto priests and Tendai Buddhist priests from Enryakuji temple praying or chanting at the same ceremony during the festival. So it’s not entirely a Shinto festival. Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine was historically affiliated with Enryakuji temple until the state required that Shinto and Buddhism be separate organizations. It’s up to you to decide which day and what time to see the festival. Click on the link above to see my photos of the festival (taken on April 13-15) to decide what you want to see. I saw and photographed all the major festival events except on the first day when they brought down the portable shrine from a low mountain. If it’s one festival that wore me out after three days, it’s this one. My video | Google Map

3. Niu Chawan Matsuri, Niu Shrine, Yogo (Nagahama), once every several years on May 4
Another of my all-time favorite festivals. They have three wooden floats topped with lofty “balancing act” chawan bowl decorations. They also hold beautiful sacred dances by boys dressed as girls. A procession of colorful flower umbrella dancers also provides a colorful accent to the festival. It’s held deep in a mountain valley of Yogo in northern Nagahama so the whole area is lush and peaceful. The only problem is that the festival is held only once every 5-6 years. The last time it was held was in 2009. According to rumors, the festival will be held in May 2014, next year. My video | Google Map

Hino Matsuri floats at Umamioka Watamuki Shrine.

4. Hino Matsuri, Hino, May 3
Shiga has a good number of float festivals, but the grandest one in spring is the Hino Matsuri. It’s grand because they have as many as 16 ornate floats with large wooden wheels that they pull through the main streets of Hino town. Each float belongs to a specific neighborhood in Hino and they are decorated with elaborate tapestries, paper lanterns, and a homemade paper sculpture on the roof that changes every year. They also have side attractions like a portable shrine procession and ceremonies featuring a sacred dance. From the morning, the floats are pulled along the streets to gather at Umamioka Watamuki Shrine, the center of the action. They play festival music and show off their floats. If you have time, you should also visit Shakunage Gorge, famous for rhododendron growing in a scenic gorge. There are lovely nature walking paths. Buses run from Hino Station. My video | Google Map

Yokaichi Giant Kite Festival held on the last Sun. in May.

5. Higashi-Omi Giant Kite Festival (formerly Yokaichi Giant Kite Festival) (Odako Matsuri), Higashi-Omi, May 26 (last Sun. in May)
The giant kite, made of washi paper and a bamboo frame, measures about 13 meters by 12 meters (size of 100 tatami mats) and weighs 700 kg. It is a work of art with a distinct shape, cutouts, and paint job featuring a traditional design of a large kanji character and twin animals. The design is selected from entries from the public and a new giant kite with a new design is made every three years. The public is also invited to help build the new kite every three years during the summer. On the festival day, the kite is flown on a riverbank a few times. It usually doesn’t stay aloft for very long unless there are strong winds. It can even crash so they clear the whole area whenever they fly the kite. You can also sign up to pull the kite. I did it once and they run at full speed. Kind of scary because if you trip and fall, you might get trampled. From 2013, the festival site will be at the Fureai Undo Park in Notogawa. Free shuttle buses will run from Notogawa Station. After (or before) the festival, be sure to check out the Odako Kaikan Giant Kite museum. Shuttle buses run to the museum. My video | Google Map

Kenketo Matsuri in Tsuchiyama, Koka.

6. Kenketo Matsuri, Koka (Tsuchiyama), May 3
Held at Takigi Jinja Shrine (龍樹神社), Kenketo Odori is a dance performed by eight boys aged 7 to 12. First there’s a procession to the shrine, and the boys start dancing at the shrine at around 2 pm. The dance was originally started to ward off calamities. The boys wear tall peacock feathers on their heads. The dance is a National Intangible Folk Cultural Property. The festival has an interesting twist when the crowd rushes to the man (sometimes knocking him down) holding a flower basket to take all the flowers. To get to the shrine, get off Kibukawa Station (JR Kusatsu Line and Ohmi Railways) and catch the Aikuru Bus. Get off at Higashi Maeno. The shrine is a short walk toward the river. My video | Google Map

Shichikawa Matsuri, Takashima

Shichikawa Matsuri’s yakko-furi procession.

7. Shichikawa Matsuri, Takashima, May 4
The largest festival in western Shiga is held at Oarahiko Shrine. It features a yakko-furi (samurai laborers) procession, yabusame horse runs, and portable shrine procession. The shrine is nearest to Shin-Asahi Station (JR Kosei Line). If it’s too far to walk, you can rent a bicycle at the train station. My video | Google Map

Ayame girls at Hyozu Matsuri.

8. Hyozu Matsuri, Hyozu Taisha Shrine, Yasu, May 5
I call this Shiga’s best portable shrine festival. Over 35 portable srhines (mikoshi) are carried around Hyozu Taisha Shrine in a very lively and gregarious style. Two of the mikoshi are carried by all women called “Ayame,” meaning iris flowers. They wear colorful happi coats to carry the mikoshi. The only thing is that the gravel path can kick up dust. Best to watch the festival from upwind. A few foreigners also participate. It starts in the morning and ends in mid-afternoon.  My video | Google Map

9. Hachiman Matsuri, Himure Hachimangu Shrine, Omi-Hachiman, April 14
Shiga’s biggest fire festival featuring several tall straw torches (as high as 10 meters) that are lit from 8 pm. If you have time during the day, you should come and look at the torches which are great works of art. The festival is prayer for an abundant harvest. They light the torches one by one. This festival is usually billed together with the Sagicho Matsuri another fire festival held in March. Sagicho Matsuri is still my favorite festival in Omi-Hachiman. My video | Google Map

10. Taga Matsuri, Taga Taisha Shrine, Taga, April 22
If you like horses and traditional costumes, see this festival. They have a long procession featuring Shinto priests, children in costume, women warriors, and more people on 40 horses. A total of 500 people are in the procession. There is a morning procession leaving Taga Taisha at 10:30 am for Totonomiya Shrine deep in Taga’s countryside, and an afternoon (main) procession leaving Taga Taisha at 2 pm for the Otabisho, a short distance away from Taga Taisha. My video | Google Map

For other spring festivals in Shiga, see my previous posts: April 2012 | May 2011 | May 2010 | 2009 Chawan Matsuri

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Supermarket shopping bags no longer free

April 1, 2013 Otsu, Shiga-ken Comments Off

Starting on April 1, 2013, over 70 percent of supermarkets in Shiga Prefecture will charge 5 yen for a plastic shopping bag. Some 150 supermarkets in Shiga, including 71 Heiwado supermarket branches (like Friend Mart), have started charging 5 yen for those ubiquitous plastic shopping bags (レジ袋) for groceries.

This measure aims to reduce waste, obviously. The money collected from shopping bag sales will be used for environmental preservation. Currently, about 50 percent of shoppers bring their own bags for groceries. The prefecture wants to raise this to 80 percent in three years.

So whenever you go grocery shopping in Shiga, the checkout clerk will ask if you want a bag or not. Just bring your own bag and say, “iranai” (no need).

I’m surprised at how late Shiga has implemented this measure. It should’ve been in place at least 20 years ago when you think of the lake where I sometimes see plastic bags polluting it. In Tokyo, they started charging for shopping bags many years ago. It also has an excellent weekly recycling system for old newspapers, magazines, corrugated cardboard boxes, recyclable plastic, Styrofoam trays, glass bottles, PET (plastic) bottles, and tin cans. And most supermarkets accept empty milk cartons.

The only hole in the plan is the convenience stores. They still give out plastic bags for whatever you buy. Of course, I always bring my rucksack or a used bag. Been doing so for most of my time in Japan. I also don’t accept chopsticks when I buy a bento.

Speaking of Heiwado, the AL Plaza mall right next to Otsu Station will close in December 2013 after almost 40 years in business (opened in 1974). It will be replaced by a condominium with a supermarket on the first two floors. The Heart In convenience store at Otsu Station will also close in May 2013. Most of Otsu Station’s 34,000 daily users are only commuters and the area around the station has languished in comparison to the area around Hama-Otsu Station.

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Shiga’s Top 5 cherry blossom spots

March 24, 2013 Best of Shiga Prefecture, Festivals in Spring, Hikone, Nagahama, Omi-Hachiman, Otsu, Takashima Comments Off

Hikone Castle, Shiga’s No. 1 cherry blossom spot.

Cherry blossoms are blooming earlier than usual this year. We’ve been having warm days during the first half of March. According to the cherry blossom forecast, the flowers should be in full bloom in Shiga during the second week of April. Note that they bloom later in northern Shiga (Takashima and Nagahama) than in southern Shiga (Otsu). This year I’ve decided to rank Shiga’s top cherry blossom spots. Here are my Top 5 favorite sakura spots in Shiga (click on the links or image to see more photos):

1. Hikone Castle – Coming at No. 1 is Hikone Castle. Although Hikone Castle is not one of the 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots of Japan (according to the Japan Cherry Blossom Association, I think it’s Shiga’s prettiest and most photogenic. It has an awful lot of cherry blossom trees almost everywhere amid the dramatic backdrop of the castle, white walls, and moats. I found so many varied views and great camera angles for shooting cherry blossoms here. You can see cherries on the big stone walls, along the moats, and next to the main castle tower. Culturally and historically, cherry blossoms best match a castle (especially one that is a National Treasure, another reason why I rank it No. 1), a symbol of the samurai whose life was as fleeting as the sakura. Hikone Castle is easily accessible from Hikone Station. Google map.

Kaizu-Osaki is nice but watch out for the cars.

2. Kaizu-Osaki, Takashima - Kaizu-Osaki has cherry trees lining the northern shore of Lake Biwa for a few kilometers. The blue lake water and Chikubushima island provide a very Shiga-esque backdrop for the cherries. It’s one of Japan’s 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots, and I would rank it as Shiga’s No. 1 sakura spot if it weren’t for the hazardous viewing conditions. Kaizu-Osaki has a narrow and hazardous lakeshore road (with no sidewalk) right next to the shoreline trees. During the peak period, there are just too many cars passing by, squeezing out pedestrians and polluting the air. There is a short pedestrian path and small park at the beginning if you go from Makino Station, but it doesn’t go to the main part of the trees. Since there is no sidewalk and you are walking on the road, you always have to be on guard for cars. Not recommended for families with young kids, especially on weekends. Also, the tunnels are dark and very narrow (no sidewalks). Bring a flashlight so the cars can see you walking or riding your bicycle inside the tunnel. If you have a car, note that there is very little parking. Shuttle buses run infrequently from train stations (most people walk from Makino Station). I recommend renting a bicycle at Makino Station (at the tourist info office) and cycling to Kaizu-Osaki. If you have the time and energy, bicycling from Makino Station to Nagahara Station (or vice versa) along the lake would be very scenic. You can return the bicycle at either station. And oh, beware of wild monkeys. Best not to carry a plastic bag, etc., that the monkeys may think contains food. Google Map

View from top of Nagahama Castle.

3. Nagahama Castle and Hokoen Park
Another photogenic backdrop with a huge cluster of cherry blossoms. Be sure to go up to the castle tower’s lookout deck (admission charged to enter the castle museum) to see the cherry blossoms surrounding the castle. Breathtaking. One of Japan’s 100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots (there’s a monument saying so) and a major spot for hanami flower-viewing picnics. They have areas for picnicking as well as areas to just stroll under the cherries. Nagahama Castle is in the lakeside Hokoen Park near Nagahama Station. Google Map

Miidera’s Kondo main hall (National Treasure) and sakura.

4. Miidera temple and Biwako Canal, Otsu
There’s a great synergy between Biwako (Lake Biwa) Canal and Miidera temple during cherry blossom season. Biwako Canal supplies water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto. From Miidera Station (Keihan Line), you can’t miss it. It’s lined with many cherry trees, but it’s fenced off so it’s see but don’t touch. You’d think that they should allow rowboating in the canal when the flowers are in bloom. But if you look closely, you will notice a pretty fast current which would be dangerous for rowers. In the old days about a century ago after the canal was built, they had boats going all the way through canal to Kyoto. After walking along the canal, turn right and walk to the sprawling Miidera temple. They have cherry trees here and there providing a great accent to the old temple buildings (including a few National Treasures). There’s also a great lookout point on a hill giving great views of Otsu (concrete jungle) and the lake. They also light up the trees at night as they do at Biwako Canal. Beautiful and serene. Google Map

Hachiman-bori canal.

5. Hachiman-bori, Omi-Hachiman – Hachiman-bori canal has a long canopy of sakura trees along this scenic moat. The moat and white-walled traditional buildings make it photogenic, fit for shooting a samurai movie. It’s not so crowded either so you can enjoy a laid-back atmosphere while walking on a nice sidewalk or path along the moat. There are also moat boat rides starting near the Kawara Tile Museum. After seeing the flowers, you have the option to see numerous other nearby sights such as Hachiman-yama (via ropeway), Himure Hachimangu Shrine, Kawara Roof Tile Museum, Hakuunkan, Omi-shonin merchant homes on Shinmachi-dori, and buildings by William Merrell Vories. There is much more than just cherry blossoms which is my reason to include Hachiman-bori among the Top Five. Google Map

So, the places above are where I would show a first-time visitor wanting to see cherry blossoms in Shiga. I selected them based on Shiga’s unique beauty or scenery, easy accessibility, and sightseeing value.

To see the current blooming condition, see the Weather News Sakura page for Shiga. Starting with brown that indicates buds, the markers show warmer colors until red (full bloom) indicating how far the flowers have bloomed right now.

This is off-topic, but if you really love cherry blossoms, I highly recommend visiting the Tohoku region (Fukushima, Yamagata, Miyagi, Iwate, etc.). The cherry trees there are huge and look very distinguished, like giant bonsai. The tree trunks are really thick and they make the skinny cherry trees in Tokyo, Shiga, Kyoto, etc., look like baby trees.

Enjoy the spring.

Essential Vocabulary

  • sakura さくら or 桜 - Cherry blossom and Japan’s national symbol and flower. By far, it is the most celebrated flower in Japan.
  • tsubomi つぼみ – Flower buds.
  • shichibu-zaki 七分咲き – Cherry blossoms in 70% bloom which is right before they reach full bloom. News reports consider 80% bloom to be full bloom (mankai).
  • sakura zensen 桜前線 – Cherry blossom front as they bloom across Japan from Okinawa to Hokkaido.
  • kaika 開花 – Flowers started blooming. This is about a week before the tree reaches full bloom.
  • mankai 満開 – Full bloom. You will hear this on the news often.
  • hayasaki 早咲き – Early-blooming flowers. A few varieties of cherry blossoms bloom earlier than usual.
  • hanami or ohanami 花見 – Flower-viewing picnic (often with alcohol) under the cherry blossoms at a park. The most common way to celebrate spring under the flowers and commonly seen in the news. Hanami picnics are usually not allowed in shrines and temples.
  • sakura matsuri さくらまつり or 桜祭り- Cherry blossom festival. Not a religious festival, but can take the form of various events and stage entertainment.
  • Somei Yoshino 染井吉野 - The most common and coveted species of cherry blossoms whose light pink (almost white) flowers bloom in fluffy bunches on the tree.
  • yo-zakura 夜桜 – Cherry blossoms lit up at night. Some temples and parks light up the flowers at night.
  • shidare-zakura しだれ桜 or 枝垂桜 - Weeping cherry blossoms with long, hanging branches of flowers.
  • Sakura Meisho さくら名所 – Famous cherry blossom spot. It is most often a castle, public park, garden, shrine/temple, or riverside.
  • Sakura, Sakura さくら さくら- Famous folk song about cherry blossoms.
  • chiru, chitta 散る、散った – Flowers fell off the tree. Happens a few days after full bloom when the petals fall like pink snow.
  • sakura fubuki さくら吹雪 – Swirling cherry blossom petals. Occurs when the wind blows off the flower petals, creating a pink snow.
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Governor Kada rejects Kyoto merging with Shiga

February 28, 2013 Otsu, Shiga-ken, Shiga/Omi Brand Comments Off
Image from Wikipedia.

One proposal for Doshusei prefectural mergers (9 states). Image from Wikipedia.

NHK TV news in Otsu reported an interesting bit of news on Feb. 26, 2013 about the governor of Kyoto stating that he was in favor of merging Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures. And that Shiga Governor Yukiko Kada rejected such a merger saying that she did not see how Shiga could benefit.

This is what Kyoto Governor Keiji Yamada stated in front of the Kyoto Prefectural Assembly on On Feb. 25, 2013:

“Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures share a lot within our living and working spheres, so merging is a practical option. If this happens, we could also think about moving Kyoto’s prefectural capital to Otsu.”

In Japanese: 「滋賀県とは生活区域や働く場所など共通点が非常に多いので合併というのも１つの現実的な対応ではないか。そうした場合、政治論からすれば、大津に府庁を持って行くことも考えられる」

Reacting to this, Governor Kada told reporters:

“Shiga has a history of 1,300 years. Since we are bound/unified by a natural lake, we are called ‘Lake country’ and ‘Omi Province.’ We’re older than Kyoto (grin)…Shiga is also governed by a tightly-knit government and people in Shiga love their hometown and retain a strong identity. I don’t really see any benefits right now in erasing Shiga or merging with Kyoto.”

In Japanese: 「滋賀県は湖でつながり、一体的に行政運営もなされ、県民の皆さんも地元を愛しているので、京都と一緒になるメリットは今のところ見えない」

This talk is in reference to the ruling Liberal Democratic Party and other parties’ push for the Doshusei (道州制) system of consolidating Japan’s prefectures (except Hokkaido and Okinawa) into larger regional states. The Kyoto governor’s statement was made amid this national discussion so it’s not totally out of the blue.

If you live in Japan, you should learn and remember the word Doshusei. It literally means, “Hokkaido+states system.” It’s been kicked around for quite some time, but it has become more prominent in the past 10 years and you can be sure to hear it more often from now on, especially with the Liberal Democratic Party in power.

The Doshusei system is a major reform and realignment of Japan’s governmental jurisdictions. The word “prefecture” would disappear, replaced by “state.” It would be similar to when prefectures consolidated and replaced the old samurai domains called han (藩) in 1871. That was called haihan-chiken (廃藩置県). There are Doshusei proposals to consolidate Japan’s 47 prefectures into 9, 11, or 13 states. Hokkaido and Okinawa would remain as separate states, while the remaining 45 prefectures would be merged into regional states.

The image at the top gives you an idea of what the new united states of Japan might look like in the case of having nine states. Shiga Prefecture (white dot) would basically merge with Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, Nara, and Wakayama Prefectures (all in light green in the middle). (There is also a proposal to include Fukui Prefecture.) It combines the Kansai and Kinki regions.

The goals and benefits of the Doshusei system supposed to be the decentralization of the national government in favor of more local autonomy. Another benefit supposed to be improved fiscal and administrative efficiency which I hope means a smaller and less costly government. I guess the six governors of six merging prefectures would be replaced by only one governor right?

Kyoto Governor Yamada’s statement favoring a merger with Shiga is premature since ultimately it’s not a matter of only Kyoto and Shiga merging, but the merger of at least six prefectures. Wouldn’t it be more efficient and less costly to merge all at once instead of only Kyoto and Shiga at first, then add Osaka, etc., later? I can only dismiss Governor Yamada’s statement as just “feelers” for a reaction from Shiga which has been “no” so far (at least from Gov. Kada). I’m sure Kyoto would love to claim Shiga as its own. Lake Biwa is their (and Osaka’s) water supply and would be the most prized possession. For us in Shiga, we could say that we live in Kyoto instead of always saying, “Next to Kyoto.”

One big sticking point for the Doshusei system would be what to name the new state and how the old prefectures would be able to retain their local names, identity, and flavor. Prefectures like Kyoto and Osaka with capital cities having the same name will be able to retain their names on the map. But not Shiga, unless they figure something out. What would people call the area once known as Shiga Prefecture? Omi? Biwako area? Eastern Kinki (if the new state will be called Kinki)?

Any prefectural merger would render the name “Shiga” obsolete unless they name the new state “Shiga” (fat chance). There are many things named “Shiga,” universities, public facilities, etc. And of course, Web sites like mine. Hence, my interest in this news.

Also, sister-state relations between Shiga and Michigan will likely encompass the entire super state. Michigan will be a sister state with Kyoto, Osaka, etc., as well. Imagine that.

But a prefectural merger and/or the implementation of the Doshusei system is inevitable. The question is when and how. Will it be a super merger of all prefectures at one time or piece meal? Will it occur all over Japan at the same time or at different times? Governor Kada has set up a research group (道州制研究チーム) to study the pros and cons of the Doshusei system. It’s basically a money matter though. If there are enough financial incentives, the prefectures will merge as the cities, towns, and villages have done in recent years.

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Plum blossoms in Shiga Prefecture

February 20, 2013 Aisho, Festivals in Winter, Maibara, Nagahama, Otsu, Yasu Comments Off

Nagahama Hokoen Park plum blossoms.

Plum blossoms, called ume (梅) in Japanese, have absolutely the sweetest and most pacifying fragrance of all the flowers in Japan. Whenever you see plum blossoms, put your nose right next to the flower and smell. It will sooth your soul. There are many varieties of plum blossoms, but they basically white, pink, or red and each color smells differently. The white ones have the most dainty smell, while the red ones have a stronger and more concentrated sweet smell.

Plum blossoms have been an intricate part of Japanese culture, art, and aesthetics for centuries. The term shochikubai (松竹梅), meaning pine, bamboo, and plum blossoms, is an auspicious and favorite aesthetic concept in Japan that you can find on folding screens, sliding fusuma doors, and Japanese paintings. In my bedroom in Shiga, I have hand-painted fusuma on two sides of the room with beautiful paintings of shochikubai. My dad had excellent taste when he bought them in Hikone before I was born. I have treasured them ever since I became old enough to appreciate them. Sadly, they don’t make them like that anymore, at least at affordable prices.

In most parts of Japan, plum blossoms bloom in Feb. and March. In Hokkaido, they bloom in May, at the same time as cherry blossoms. When they reach full bloom depends on how cold/warm the winter is. The colder it is, the later they bloom.

Although Shiga does not have huge plum blossom groves like in Minabe, Wakayama; Kairakuen Garden in Mito (Ibaraki Prefecture); or Ome in Tokyo, Shiga has a few good plum groves called bairin (梅林) or plum gardens (baien 梅園) and plum blossom bonsai displays called bonbaiten (盆梅展).

Nagahama Hokoen Park 豊公園
Although Hokoen Park is most famous for cherry blossoms, it also has a decent number of plum trees. Great place to photograph them with Nagahama Castle in the background (photo above). They bloom in March. Near JR Nahagama Station. Google Map

Nagahama Bonbaiten in Keiunkan.

Nagahama Bonbaiten 長浜盆梅展
This is perhaps Shiga’s most famous plum blossom bonsai exhibition, held annually for 62 years since 1952. The venue is the stately Keiunkan (慶雲館), a Japanese-style former guesthouse originally built in 1887 to accommodate Emperor Meiji when he visited Nagahama. It’s near JR Nagahama Station. They have 90 bonsai trees on display, including one that is almost 3 meters tall or 400 years old. Don’t touch and try to smell these prized trees. Nagahama also has another bonbaiten in Azai. Until March 10, 2013. Hours: 9 am – 5 pm, Admission: 500 yen (200 yen for high school and younger) Google Map

Kamo-no-sato Bonbaiten, Maibara 鴨の里盆梅展
Held in Green Park Santo (グリーンパーク山東), a large recreational park in Maibara. Inside the Spark Santo hall (すぱーく山東) are about 120 bonsai plum trees raised by over 30 devoted growers. They also have an orchid show at the same time. Near JR Omi-Nagaoka Station. Until March 10, 2013. Hours: 9:30 am – 5 pm (enter by 4:30 pm), Admission: 400 yen (200 yen for high school and younger, free for elementary schoolers) Google Map

Omi-Fuji Karyoku Koen Park (Omi-Fuji Green Acres), Yasu 近江富士花緑公園
Sandwiched between the foot of Mt. Mikami and Kibogaoka Bunka Park, Omi-Fuji Karyoku Koen Park (also called Omi-Fuji Green Acres) is about flowers and greenery, including plum and cherry blossoms. They have a blog showing the progress of their plum blossoms blooming. Buses from JR Yasu Station go to Kibogaoka Bunka Koen Park’s Kibogaoka Nishi Gate from which you can walk to the park. Hours: 9 am – 5 pm. Google Map

Statue of Saint Shinran in front of the plum tree he planted at Homanji temple in Echigawa, Aisho.

Homanji temple, Aisho 宝満寺
This temple in Echigawa has a historically significant plum tree in front of the Hondo main hall. While traveling, Saint Shinran, founder of the Jodo Shinshu Buddhist Sect, was unable to cross the Echigawa River due to flooding. So he stayed at this temple temporarily. During that time, he planted a plum tree which bloom red plum blossoms. Near Ohmi Railways Echigawa Station. Google Map

Plum blossoms at Ishiyama-dera temple. Smell the different varieties.

Ishiyama-dera, Otsu 石山寺
Ishiyama temple has an impressive 400 plum trees in three hillside plum groves. Since there is a variety of plums, there’s a good chance of seeing at least a few in full bloom in Feb. or March. They have a blog showing how much the plums are blooming. Ishiyama-dera also has an indoor plum tree ikebana (Mishogoryu School 未生御流) exhibition called Ume Tsukushi-ten (梅つくし展) until March 18, 2013 in one of their temple buildings called Myoo-in (明王院). This indoor exhibition is free if you have paid the temple admission fee. Near JR Ishiyama Station and Keihan Ishiyama-dera Station. Hours: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm (enter by 4 pm), Temple admission: 500 yen Google Map

Sakamoto Bonbaiten, Otsu 坂本盆梅展
I’ve never seen this, but it looks worthwhile. About 50 small and medium-size plum blossom bonsai trees are exhibited in the noted garden of Kyu-Chikurin-in (旧竹林院) in the temple town of Sakamoto. Near Sakamoto Station on the Keihan Ishiyama-Sakamoto Line. Peak period is from mid- to late Feb. Until March 3, 2013. Hours: 9 am – 5 pm (enter by 4:30 pm), Admission: 310 yen (150 yen for kids) Google Map

 

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Nionoumi, sumo wrestler from Shiga Prefecture

January 28, 2013 Best posts (most popular), Koka, Otsu, Ritto, Shiga/Omi Brand, Sports in Shiga Comments Off


Went to see sumo on January 25, 2013, the 13th day of the New Year’s sumo tournament at the Kokugikan sumo arena in Tokyo. I finally saw Nionoumi (鳰の湖), Shiga’s only sekitori (a sumo wrestler in the second-highest Juryo or highest Makunouchi/Makuuchi Division).

It’s been two years since Nionoumi (pronounced Nio-no-umi) first made it to the Juryo Division. He has since been going down and up in the ranks. At this month’s New Year’s tournament in Tokyo, he ended with a decent 8 wins and 7 losses. Since he was already ranked at the bottom of the Juryo Division, it looks like he will retain his rank or be slightly promoted in Juryo for the next tourney in March in Osaka.

This is good news. The difference between Juryo and the lower Makushita Division is huge. There used to always be a Shiga sumo wrestler in the top Makunouchi Division, but not anymore. At least we got one in Juryo who will hopefully get back up to Makunouchi.

Born in 1986 as Shinji Tanaka (田中 真二), Nionoumi is from Otsu and a graduate of Ojiyama Junior High School. He practiced judo as a child and became quite formidable, becoming one of the top 16 junior high school finalists in a national judo tournament. After graduating from junior high school, he entered Kitanoumi Stable run by former Yokozuna Kitanoumi (one of the greatest yokozuna ever) and current chairman of the Japan Sumo Association. Nionoumi made his sumo debut in March 2002. At 175 cm and 148 kg, he’s kind of small for a sumo wrestler and looks somewhat stocky.

His ring name “Nionoumi” means, “Lake of Little Grebes.” This is Lake Biwa’s nickname which stems from the lake’s numerous water fowl including the Little Grebe which is Shiga’s official bird. I think it’s a great ring name. It also retains part of his stablemaster’s ring name of Kitanoumi (Lake of the North 北の湖) which refers to scenic  Lake Toya in Hokkaido where Kitanoumi grew up and has his Yokozuna Kitanoumi Memorial Hall museum.

Nionoumi (right) is pushed out by Oiwato on Jan. 25, 2013, the tournament’s 13th day. Video of this bout: http://youtu.be/VPxD8mbxgDk

Nionoumi was first promoted to Juryo in Jan. 2011. But his Juryo debut ended disastrously with 5 wins and 10 losses and he was demoted back to Makushita. After two tourneys in Makushita, he climbed back up to Juryo in Sept. 2011. In Jan. 2012, he even made it to the top Makunouchi/Makuuchi Division as Maegashira No. 16. Unfortunately, his Makunouchi debut ended terribly with 5 wins and 10 losses which demoted him back to Juryo. He has since been struggling in Juryo. Let’s hope that he will keep winning in 2013.

Meanwhile, we have three other sumo wrestlers from Shiga in the lower sumo divisions. In Sandanme, there’s Koryuyama (b. 1979 甲龍山) from Koka and Naniwaryu (b. 1982 浪花竜) from Otsu. And in Jonidan, Tomonofuji (b. 1977 智ノ富士) from Ritto. Although they are already in their 30s (which is quite old for a sumo wrestler), good luck to them as well.

Links: Nionoumi Bio | Koryuyama Bio | Naniwaryu Bio | Tomonofuji Bio

Koryuyama (right) is quickly defeated by Tamanotaka (left) on Jan. 25, 2013, the tournament’s 13th day.

Naniwaryu (right) is pushed out by Nishiyama on Jan. 25, 2013, the tournament’s 13th day.

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Ozushima island in Yamaguchi

January 18, 2013 Otsu, Shiga/Omi Brand Comments Off

Click on image to see more photos of this island.

This is an island in the Seto Inland Sea in Yamaguchi Prefecture. When seeing this kanji name (大津島), those of us in Shiga cannot help but to call this island “Otsushima.” However, it is actually called, “Ozushima” (おおづしま). Not only that, on the map’s upper left, you can see a place called 近江. Again, we in Shiga would call it “Omi.” But it is actually “Chikae.” Wow, very interesting. I thought that this island must have some connection with Shiga Prefecture, but I was told that there was no connection.

Ozushima is a short boat ride from Tokuyama Port near JR Tokuyama Station. I visited in fall 2012 and the main attraction is the Kaiten human torpedo museum and the training facility that still exists. The kaiten went on suicide missions with manned torpedos hitting ships. It’s sad story of 105 men who died driving a kaiten. More photos of Ozushima here.

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Governor Kada’s new political party fizzles out

January 6, 2013 Best posts (most popular), Otsu, Shiga/Omi Brand Comments Off

This has become an “I told you so” story. People who were opposed to Kada joining hands with Ichiro Ozawa must be repeating this a lot.

Most of us can recognize that Governor Kada had good intentions for Shiga from the start, and that she was only victimized by a expert political manipulator and an overwhelming political machine. Her opponents view her as neglecting her gubernatorial duties and seeking national attention.

On Jan. 4, 2013, the first work day, Shiga Governor Yukiko Kada announced that she was resigning from her Tomorrow Party of Japan (Mirai no To) political party that she and Ichiro Ozawa formed a little over a month ago.

Ozawa has enhanced his reputation as a political party “destroyer.” This goes to show that politicians mainly care about themselves and the huge government subsidies (over 800 million yen to Ozawa’s party) given to political parties rather than the people and the country. They spend much time and thought on how to get ahead politically, how to increase their numbers, and then if they have time, they might think about us.

Tomorrow Party of Japan’s Diet numbers shrank from 61 seats to only 9. When the party was formed, Ozawa told Gov. Kada that they would secure 100 seats. He lied, and Kada now reflects that she shouldn’t have believed him. One thing for sure, Ozawa’s political influence is on the decline even though he got re-elected.

Basically, the Ozawa camp were unable to manipulate Kada as the party head. They thought she could be their puppet. But when they found that she had her righteous ideals and could not be molded, they cut her off. They say that they split the party between Ozawa and Kada or that Ozawa left the party. Not really so. Ozawa ousted Governor Kada, took over the party (offices and infrastructure), changed the name, took almost all the Diet seat winners (thereby receiving a huge subsidy for political parties having at least 5 members) and left Kada with only the party’s old name and one Diet seat.

Related news articles:
Nippon Mirai breaks up as Ozawa, allies veer off
Ozawa, Diet cohorts keep party, subsidy, leave Shiga Gov. Kada with Nippon Mirai name only
Kada rues falling for Ozawa’s 100-seat victory overture

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Shiga Governor Yukiko Kada forms new political party

November 28, 2012 Otsu, Shiga/Omi Brand Comments Off

Governor Kada on NHK TV national news.

What seemed to be totally out of the blue, our Shiga Governor Yukiko Kada has formed a new political party called Nippon Mirai no To (日本未来の党) which means “Party for Japan’s Future.” (Most English news media are translating it as “Japan Future Party” even though there is no official English name as of this writing.) At a press conference on Nov. 27, 2012, she announced the formation of her new party with the primary goal of abolishing nuclear power in Japan in 10 years.

A good number of minor political parties have already joined hands with Governor Kada’s new party, including those led by former political kingpin Ichiro Ozawa and Shizuka Kamei. This news is still breaking, but they have already counted 70 people lining up to be members of the new party. The party is aiming to field 100 candidates in the upcoming elections on Dec. 16 and become the real “third choice or force” in Japan’s national government, something which Osaka Mayor Toru Hashimoto’s Nippon Ishin Party wants to be vis-a-vis the ruling Democratic Party of Japan and Liberal Democratic Party.

The formation of the new party was actually in planning for weeks if not months, pushed mainly by Ichiro Ozawa who seems to be making his last stand in Japanese politics. This explains the sudden and almost simultaneous agreement among the other parties to disband and join Kada’s party. Ozawa has a history of quitting a party when there was disagreement and forming or joining a new one.

Overnight, Governor Kada has become a national figure with her name and new party making front-page news in Japan. She is now being hounded by the press in Otsu. Unlike Shintaro Ishihara who recently quit his job as Tokyo governor to form a new political party (Sunrise Party or Taiyo no To which later merged with Toru Hashimoto’s party), Governor Kada plans to remain governor of Shiga and act as the new party’s chief without running for a Diet seat.

Governor Kada was spurred to form a new party after learning that many voters did not like any of the major parties. Toru Hashimoto’s promising new party withdrew its initial stance of abolishing nuclear power after pro-nuclear Shintaro Ishihara joined Hashimoto’s party and received a leadership role. Many minor parties opposed to Hashimoto are riding on Governor Kada’s coattails, attracted by her fresh and clean image and her sincere motivation of protecting Lake Biwa from nuclear accidents. Neighboring Fukui Prefecture has the highest concentration of nuclear power plants in Japan.

Governor Kada’s timetable for phasing out nuclear power in 10 years.

With the lackluster Democratic Party of Japan struggling to secure votes in the next election, opposition parties smell blood and they are all coming out of the woodwork and jumping at the chance of wrestling power and votes away from the ruling coalition. We have a plethora of large and small political parties in the midst of what I call a Warring Political Parties Era. Since the smaller parties have no chance of gaining clout, they are allying themselves.

However, the problem is that most political parties in Japan have always been and still is fragmented, factional, and short-lived. Even if Governor Kada succeeds in gathering enough little parties, it will inevitably and eventually struggle with internal policy differences between the little groups. This also occurs in the larger parties. Parties and politicians also keep changing their positions. Hashimoto’s about-face regarding nuclear power was very disappointing and put a damper on his party’s prospects of revolutionizing Japan’s government. It has become apparent that he has put priority on party size and unity rather than on policy. And Shintaro Ishihara abandoned the Tokyo governorship to form a new party only to soon disband and join Hashimoto. Politicians are basically just puppets of the bureaucrats who really run the government.

Ichiro Ozawa meets with Governor Kada in early Dec.

The fact that Ichiro Ozawa and Shizuka Kamei will be in Governor Kada’s new party doesn’t bode well for many of my friends in Shiga. Although the new party is saying that Ozawa will have no formal leadership role or title in the new party, we cannot ignore the fact that he will be bringing 48 Lower House members from his disbanded party to Kada’s new party. It is all but certain that his group in the new party will be the largest, and thus have the most influence. Governor Kada, citing her inexperience and Ozawa’s long experience in national politics, has also said that she will be seeking Ozawa’s advice. Ozawa certainly does not need a formal title or position in the party to wield his influence behind the scenes. Within a few days of the announcement of the new party, he already has close aids as the new party’s deputy leader and accountant. Tetsunari Iida, who was appointed by Governor Kada as the new party’s acting leader, has been demoted to deputy leader.

We wonder whether Governor Kada can keep these political heavyweights in line and whether she can effectively work as governor of Shiga while she heads her new party. Or whether she will only be a figurehead while Ozawa pulls the real strings. Governor Kada is starting to look like that she does not have the time, experience, and expertise in managing a new political party and will have to depend on Ozawa quite a bit. Ozawa knew this all along. Ozawa is turning out to be a very clever manipulator, using Kada as a front for his political gain.

On Nov. 28, 2012, the head of the Shiga Prefectural Assembly, Takanori Sano, asked Governor Kada to resign the governorship if she decides to continue being the head of her new party. He said that it would be difficult to work as both governor and party leader. The Governor declined to offer her resignation saying that her policies on nuclear power and child-rearing would not otherwise be heard at the national level.

Meanwhile, the DPJ, LDP, and Hashimoto are all understandably deriding Kada’s new party. All they need is another major force that can take away votes and influence. I’m disappointed that Hashimoto and Governor Kada cannot work together since they are from the same region of Japan where the nuclear power issue is very important. Shiga supplies water to Osaka via Lake Biwa which is vulnerable to radiation contamination by a nuclear disaster in Fukui.

With her sudden national prominence and fresh new face, I wouldn’t be surprised if Governor Kada pursues a career in national politics after her governorship ends, culminating as a Cabinet minister or even prime minister. This is not unprecedented. Masayoshi Takemura, who was Shiga governor during 1974-1986, was Japan’s Finance Minister in the mid-1990s.

Good luck to Governor Kada. (Nippon Mirai Party official site: http://www.nippon-mirai.jp)

Related articles:

http://mainichi.jp/english/english/newsselect/news/20121130p2a00m0na012000c.html

http://www.yomiuri.co.jp/dy/national/T121128004551.htm

http://www.japantimes.co.jp/text/nn20121128a1.html

http://www.japantimes.co.jp/text/nn20121128x2.html

http://www.japantimes.co.jp/text/nn20121128x1.html

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Seian University of Art and Design

November 23, 2012 Art in Shiga Prefecture, Otsu Comments Off

Eye-catching outdoor art at Seian Univ. of Art and Design. They are gazing at Lake Biwa.

I recently visited Seian University of Art and Design in western Otsu (near Ogoto Onsen Station on the JR Kosei Line) for the first time. (In Japanese. the university is called Seian Zokei Daigaku 成安造形大学.) I was impressed with their slogan of being an ”Art Museum on Campus.”

It is indeed like an art museum with numerous galleries on campus open to the public. I visited of few of the galleries and found out that the university holds a major art exhibition in spring and fall. Right now, painter Brian Williams is showing at the university’s Gallery Art Site until Dec. 1, 2012. Most of the time, the galleries show work by the students. They undergo a screening to get an exhibition slot, so you can bet that the quality is high.

When you arrive at the university, get a campus map of the galleries. There are a few outdoor pieces as well (see photos).

Outdoor art at Seian Univ. of Art and Design. Cafeteria Yui (made of scrap wood) is nearby.

Seian Univ. art3

One of the galleries at Seian University of Art and Design. This is sculpture by Hiromu Okuda (奥田博士), a Shiga-born artist

Seian University of Art and Design is Shiga’s sole art university. It’s a small university with about 800 students or 200 students per class from freshman to senior. It offers five programs/faculties and over half of the students belong to the Illustration Program (includes manga). Not so many belong to the FIne Art Program (painting, sculpture, etc.).

They also accept and have a small number of international students, mostly from Asian countries (one is an American from Chicago). International students must be conversant in Japanese. They undergo an interview in Japanese and the university decides whether their Japanese is good enough. They don’t need to take/pass a Japanese proficiency test nor be proficient at reading/writing Japanese.

The university also strives to take an active part in the local community and be an active contributor to the local community. For example, they recently published a well-illustrated brochure created by students to introduce eateries along the Kosei train line near the university.

The university also has a pleasant cafeteria called “Yui” near the lake shore where you can have lunch. The campus is lucky to have views of Lake Biwa. I wish all the students at Seian University of Art and Design the best for a bright career. Web site: http://www.seian.ac.jp/ Google map: http://goo.gl/maps/pEOdj

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Omi gods and buddhas religious art exhibition in Tokyo

October 22, 2012 Art in Shiga Prefecture, Konan, Maibara, Nagahama, Omi-Hachiman, Otsu, Shiga/Omi Brand Comments Off

Went to Mitsui Memorial Museum in Nihonbashi, Tokyo to see an exhibition of religious art from Shiga Prefecture. It was excellent. Buddha statues, mandalas, bells, scrolls, etc., from many of the major Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in Shiga were displayed, including two National Treasures and many Important Cultural Properties. Many of these things we normally cannot see even when we visit the temple/shrine. The exhibition ends on Nov. 25, 2012. Admission is 1,200 yen for adults. English captions are provided.

Some images of the pieces exhibited: http://www.mitsui-museum.jp/exhibition/index.html

English info: http://www.mitsui-museum.jp/english/english.html

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