{"id":8124,"date":"2023-02-21T22:10:00","date_gmt":"2023-02-21T13:10:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/shiga-ken.com\/blog\/?p=8124"},"modified":"2025-06-29T20:30:04","modified_gmt":"2025-06-29T11:30:04","slug":"enryakuji-10-year-renovations","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/shiga-ken.com\/blog\/2023\/02\/enryakuji-10-year-renovations\/","title":{"rendered":"Enryakuji’s 10-year renovations 2016\u20132026"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Enryakuji Temple’s
Konpon Chudo<\/em> main worship hall and corridor before and after the scaffolding was built. Bottom right is the temporary entrance to Konpon Chudo.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next to Kyoto, Enryakuji Temple<\/strong> (\u5ef6\u66a6\u5bfa) on Mt. Hiei<\/strong> (Hiei-zan<\/em> \u6bd4\u53e1\u5c71) in Otsu, Shiga Prefecture<\/a> is now offering a rare look at its massive, 10-year renovation<\/strong> of its main temple hall, the Konpon Chudo<\/strong><\/em> (\u6839\u672c\u4e2d\u5802), a National Treasure. Enryakuji’s most important building built almost 400 years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Much of the building is now being completely renovated. The roof is being disassembled and reroofed; wooden walls, woodcarvings, and paintings are being repainted or relacquered; and metal fittings and ornaments are being cleaned and restored. The renovations started in 2016 and will be completed in 2026 or later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite all the scaffolding and busy repair work, the building is still open to the public<\/strong>. Tourists and worshippers are still welcome to visit or give prayers as usual. An extra treat is the viewing platform<\/strong> (shugaku stage<\/em> \u4fee\u5b66\u30b9\u30c6\u30fc\u30b8) where you can observe the ongoing renovation work, especially the roof.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you like traditional buildings, architecture, or carpentry, you will want to see this. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the innards of this historic building. You don’t need to be Buddhist or a temple member to visit. Totally open to the public and tourists (\u00a51,000 admission charged). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hours<\/strong> (Todo complex):
January\u2013February: 9:00 a.m.\u20134:30 p.m.
March\u2013November: 8:30 a.m.\u20134:30 p.m.
December: 9:00 a.m.\u20134:00 p.m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Viewing\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"corridor\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Viewing platform (left) and view of corridor roof being replaced.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is Enryakuji?<\/h4>\n\n\n
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\"Map
Map of Mt. Hiei (eastern face) as seen from Shiga Prefecture.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Enryakuji<\/strong> is one of Japan’s most famous and largest Buddhist temples consisting of three temple complexes on Mt. Hiei or Hiei-zan<\/em> on the border between Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures. It is the headquarters of the Tendai Buddhist sect<\/strong> founded in 806 by Priest Saicho<\/strong> (\u6700\u6f84).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Along with Mt. Koya-san (headquarters of Shingon Buddhism) in Wakayama Prefecture, Mt. Hiei is one of Japan’s most prominent and sacred mountains for religious and ascetic training. As many as 3,000 monks once lived and trained together on Mt. Hiei. The mountain has sweeping views of Lake Biwa and Otsu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hiei-zan is also the cradle of Japanese Buddhism where many founders of major Japanese Buddhist sects once trained before founding their sects. They include Nichiren, Honen (Jodo-shu), Shinran (Jodo Shinshu, aka Hongwanji), and Dogen (Soto Zen).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Being northeast of central Kyoto, Enryakuji was coincidentally positioned to protect Kyoto (the Imperial capital) from demons and bad spirits believed to be lurking in the ominous northeast. Today, it mainly prays for national and world peace and good health. During the COVID-19 pandemic, it prayed for the virus to disappear. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site for Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto<\/a><\/em> since 1994.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enryakuji owns Mt. Hiei which is regarded as the home or body of the mountain god (Sanno<\/em> \u4e09\u738b). Amid the forest, the main temple complex is named Todo<\/strong><\/em> (\u6771\u5854). This is the most accessible complex where the Konpon Chudo<\/strong><\/em> main hall is located. It is closest to the cable car station running from the foot of the mountain on the Shiga side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can also visit the other two temple complexes, Saito<\/em> (\u897f\u5854) and Yokawa<\/em> (\u6a2a\u5ddd) as seen on the above map. Founded by successive Chief Abbots after Saicho, they each have numerous temples, worship halls, memorial halls, training halls, monuments, etc. From Todo, it’s walking distance to Saito. However, Yokawa may be too far to walk, so shuttle buses are provided. (Shuttle buses do not run during Jan. to mid-March.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s a nice forest hike and mostly downhill. No vending machines along the way, so take your own drinks. From Yokawa, take the shuttle bus back to Todo. Most tourists visit only Todo, so the other two complexes are pretty quiet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Hokke\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
Todo complex<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Shaka-do\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
Saito complex<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Yokawa complex<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
L-R:
Hokke Soji-in<\/em> pagoda, Shaka-do<\/em> Hall, and Yokawa Chudo<\/em> Hall.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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\"View
View of Lake Biwa from Cable Enryakuji Station on Mt. Hiei. Mt. Ibuki, Biwako Ohashi Bridge, and Karasuma Peninsula can be seen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The foot of Mt. Hiei on the Shiga side is the scenic temple town of Sakamoto, dotted with small temples and a large Shinto shrine. It’s where Enryakuji priests retire. It also has Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine (\u65e5\u5409\u5927\u793e), the headquarters of all Sanno, Hie, and Hiyoshi shrines in Japan dedicated to the Mountain God (Sanno<\/em> \u5c71\u738b) which is Mt. Hiei. Lots to see on and below the mountain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sakamoto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Hiyoshi Shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Temple town of Sakamoto at the foot of Mt. Hiei. Castle-like stone walls (
anoshu-zumi<\/em> \u7a74\u592a\u8846\u7a4d\u307f), small temples, and Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine which used to be part of Enryakuji until Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines were forced to be separated in the 19th century.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is Konpon Chudo<\/em>? (\u6839\u672c\u4e2d\u5802)<\/h4>\n\n\n
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\"Enryakuji's
Enryakuji’s Konpon Chudo<\/em> main hall (rear) and connected corridor (forefront) before 2016.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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\"Konpon\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Konpon\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Konpon Chudo’s<\/em> main entrance goes through the corridor and inner courtyard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Konpon Chudo<\/strong><\/em> is Enryakuji’s most important and main hall of worship. It consists of an imposing, worship hall (hondo<\/em> \u672c\u5802) connected to a U-shaped corridor or cloister (kairo<\/em> \u5efb\u5eca) with a small courtyard between the two structures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The hall’s original building was built in 788 by Priest Saicho while he trained on Mt. Hiei. He built three small, adjacent worship halls collectively named Ichijo Shikan-in<\/em> (\u4e00\u4e57\u6b62\u89b3\u9662) dedicated to a small statue of Yakushi Nyorai<\/strong>,<\/em> the health and healing Buddha, that he carved himself. This trio of small worship halls evolved into the large, Konpon Chudo<\/em> main temple hall.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"From\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
From top to bottom, images show how
Konpon Chudo<\/em> evolved.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Remnants of the three small worship halls remain in Konpon Chudo<\/em> in the form of three adjacent altars inside the inner sanctum which you can see. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Konpon Chudo<\/em> is also noted for three large, brass lanterns containing eternal candle flames<\/strong> (Fumetsu no hoto<\/em> \u4e0d\u6ec5\u306e\u6cd5\u706f) which were lit by Priest Saicho himself. Named the “Inextinguishable Dharma Lamp,” the flames have been burning continuously for over 1,200 years. No photography is allowed in this part of the building.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 823, Emperor Saga<\/a> (\u5d6f\u5ce8\u5929\u7687) bestowed the temple name of “Enryakuji” (\u5ef6\u66a6), naming it after the Japanese era name of “Enryaku<\/em>” (\u5ef6\u66a6 782\u2013806) when the temple was founded during the reign of Emperor Kanmu<\/a>. The worship hall trio was also renamed “Konpon Chudo.<\/em>“<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 887, after six years of construction, the three small worship halls were combined into one large worship hall as supervised by Chief Abbot Enchin<\/a> (\u5186\u73cd). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 980, Konpon Chudo<\/em> was expanded into a larger building and connected to a cloister (corridor) under the supervision of the 18th Chief Abbot Ryogen<\/a> (\u6148\u6075\u5927\u5e2b). This basic configuration of Konpon Chudo has since been retained.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1571, tragedy struck as warlord Oda Nobunaga<\/strong> battled Enryakuji’s warrior monks and torched the temple complex. During the temple’s 1,220-year history, the temple complex was destroyed by fire at least four times. It was rebuilt each time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally in 1642<\/strong>, after nine years of construction, Konpon Chudo<\/em> was rebuilt as ordered by Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu. The current building dates back to this one. The building has since undergone six major renovations with the seventh one now in progress since 2016.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Major renovations in 1798 used thin copper plates for the main hall’s roof shingles for the first time instead of ceramic roof tiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1955, Konpon Chudo was renovated for the sixth time with the roof being replaced with new copper-plate shingles and new paint and lacquer on wood surfaces. So it has been 60 years since the last major renovation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How do I visit Konpon Chudo<\/em> hall and get to the viewing platform?<\/h5>\n\n\n
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\"Even
Even wth scaffolding, Konpon Chudo’s<\/em> main entrance remains open to the public. Panels explaining the renovations are on the scaffolding building.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Although Konpon Chudo<\/em> is completely enclosed by a roofed, scaffolding structure, the main entrance remains open to tourists and worshippers. You can still enter the building, view the main altar or give prayers, and see the renovations in progress from a viewing platform (shugaku stage<\/em> \u4fee\u5b66\u30b9\u30c6\u30fc\u30b8) upstairs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The huge scaffolding structure took at least 15 months to complete in July 2018. Sadly, they had to cut down a few large trees to make room for it. It enables construction workers and artisans to easily reach and work on all parts of the building without being affected by the weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When you enter the building, you have to take off your shoes. In the inner sanctum (naijin<\/em> \u5185\u9663), see the main altars (three of them) in the darkened space. The incense smoke might make it a little smokey. Also notice the three large, brass lanterns containing the eternal candle flame (fumetsu no hoto<\/em> \u4e0d\u6ec5\u306e\u6cd5\u706f). You might hear a priest chanting prayers. No photography is allowed in this part of the building.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then go out of the inner sanctum and instead of putting your shoes back on, go right and walk to the stairway at the end of the building. Go upstairs to the viewing platform.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The viewing platform (shugaku stage<\/em> \u4fee\u5b66\u30b9\u30c6\u30fc\u30b8) opened to the public on Aug. 1, 2018. It overlooks the roofs being repaired. You can take pictures from viewing platform. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can see the roofs being reroofed with new shingles, etc. The main temple hall’s large, sloping roof is behind the viewing platform while the connected corridor’s long roof is right in front. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The elevated viewing platform occupies the courtyard between the main hall and corridor. When I was there in Nov. 2022, there were no workers, so I didn’t see them in action. There’s no extra charge to go to the viewing platform.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Enryakuji
Enryakuji Konpon Chudo’s upper viewing platform. Corridor’s roof can be seen on the left, and main hall’s roof on the right.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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\"Corridor's\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"New\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button><\/figure>\n
Left<\/strong>: Corridor’s roof framing above the karahafu<\/em> gable is exposed as it awaits new wood shingles (\u3068\u3061\u847a).
Right<\/strong>: New wood shingles on the corridor roof. Bamboo nails are used.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Left<\/strong>: Main hall’s roof on the left. Middle<\/strong>: Main hall’s roof behind the viewing platform. Video monitors show the renovations being done.
Right<\/strong>: View of the roof corner.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Left<\/strong>: Lower viewing platform displays calligraphy by local children. Middle<\/strong>: Most pieces of wood are from Nagano Prefecture and custom made by hand. Right<\/strong>: Artwork at the end of the viewing platform.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is being renovated at Konpon Chudo<\/em>?<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The Konpon Chudo<\/em> renovation project (called Konpon Chudo Dai-kaishu<\/a><\/em> \u6839\u672c\u4e2d\u5802\u5927\u6539\u4fee) started in 2016 with the 15-month construction of the huge scaffolding building covering the entire Konpon Chudo<\/em> including the roof.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s been 60 years since the last time Konpon Chudo<\/em> saw major renovations in 1955. The entire roof was replaced back then. Exposure to the elements over the decades since has taken its toll on the roof and paint. Roof shingles are damaged or decayed, and the paint or lacquer on woodcarvings and walls have faded or peeled away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Both the main worship hall (National Treasure) and corridor (National Important Cultural Property) are being renovated at a cost of at least \u00a55 billion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The renovation work includes the following:<\/p>\n\n\n\n