Archive for May 2012

Nagahama Sengoku Taiga Furusato-haku Expo

Mitsunari-kun, official mascot of the expo.

As I mentioned earlier, Nagahama is holding another feudal history expo this year called Nagahama Sengoku Taiga Furusato-haku (長浜・戦国大河ふるさと博) (Nagahama Warring States Hometown Expo) from March 24 to Dec. 2, 2012. This is their followup to last year’s Go and Azai Sisters Expo held in conjunction with last year’s year-long NHK Taiga Drama Go – Sengoku no Himetachi. I finally went to see this year’s expo in early May.

Compared to last year’s expo, I found a few new (and old) things. Last year, they focused on the NHK Taiga Drama characters and Odani Castle. This year, the focus is on the Battle of Shizugatake and the Battle of Anegawa with side attractions Odani Castle and Chikubushima island. Like last year, there are a few small pavilions, shuttle buses going to expo attractions, gift shops, an official mascot, and human guides to explain things. And like last year, nothing is in English. Expo organizers either don’t have the budget for foreign language translations or they are not aware of how popular Japanese feudal characters are outside Japan, especially in anime, manga, and video games. The Otsu-centric Biwako Visitors Bureau also has absolutely no foreign-language information about this expo, as of this writing.

kinomoto-kan

Kinomoto Pavilion.

What’s totally new is the main expo pavilion in Kinomoto called Sengoku Taiga Kinomoto-kan (戦国大河きのもと館). A short walk from JR Kinomoto Station, the pavilion (in a former bank building) has exhibits centering on the Battle of Shizugatake, a pivotal battle in May 1583 between Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Shibata Katsuie who lost. Hideyoshi’s victory solidified his claim to succeed the assassinated Oda Nobunaga as Japan’s most powerful warlord. There are pavilion guides who explain about the exhibits and battle. Admission is 300 yen.

Mt. Shizugatake is part of the Kinomoto expo site and it is one of Shiga’s must-see sights. A chair lift takes you to the top for splendid views of Lake Biwa and Lake Yogo. There’s also a samurai monument memorializing the Battle of Shizugatake. If you have a few hours to spare, you can also hike down to Lake Yogo and catch the train back from Yogo Station. JR Kinomoto Station has shuttle buses going to Mt. Shizugatake every 30 min. from 9:45 am to 4:15 pm. Round trip bus fare is 300 yen.

If you plan to visit both the Kinomoto Pavilion and Mt. Shizugatake, buy the Kinomoto set ticket for 1,000 yen which includes admission to the Kinomoto Pavilion, roundtrip shuttle bus from Kinomoto Station to Mt. Shizugatake, and roundtrip chair lift on Mt. Shizugatake. Otherwise, the roundtrip bus fare will be 300 yen, chair lift 760 yen, and Kinomoto Pavilion admission 300 yen. (Half price for kids up to junior high school.) While in Kinomoto, also stop by to see the Kinomoto Jizo-in temple with its giant Jizo statue.

azai-kan

Azai Folk History Museum is the Azai Pavilion.

The second pavilion is the Azai Pavilion which is actually the Azai Folk History Museum (Azai Rekishi Minzoku Shiryokan 浅井歴史民俗資料館), a museum complex of two thatched-roof houses and a modern museum surrounding a small Japanese garden. The modern museum has exhibits on the Battle of Anegawa and the attack on Odani Castle when Ichi escaped with her three daughters (the Azai sister trio). Note that this museum complex is a permanent facility so it will still remain after the expo ends. It has been around for years and worth a visit. Museum admission is 300 yen.

The third pavilion is in central Nagahama across from the Nagahama Hikiyama Festival Museum, a short walk from Nagahama Station. The Nagahama Pavilion shows the history of the NHK Taiga Drama series over the last 50 years. It’s in the same space as last year’s Go and Azai Sisters Expo’s Nagahama Pavilion with almost the same kind of exhibits with kimono, samurai armor, and a mini theater showing clips from NHK Taiga Dramas. Pavilion admission is 300 yen. If you want to also see the Hikiyama Museum (mainly festival floats), it’s 600 yen for admission to both. The expo pavilions are open from 9 am to 5 pm (enter by 4:30 pm).

Shizugatake

Great view of Lake Biwa from Mt. Shizugatake. Click on image to see more photos of Mt. Shizugatake.

Besides the pavilions, Mt. Shizugatake, Chikubushima island, and Odani Castle are also official expo sites. If you’ve been there already, you don’t really need to visit them during the expo. Otherwise, these sites are a must-see for history buffs. Visiting Mt. Shizugatake and Odani Castle during the expo is very convenient because shuttle buses run much more frequently than usual.

Odani Castle, home of Azai Nagamasa, wife Ichi (Oichi), and their three daughters Chacha, Hatsu, and Go (Azai sister trio), was the star of last year’s expo. By including it in this year’s expo, they continue to provide convenient shuttle buses from Nagahama Station (west side) running every 30 min. or so from 9:20 am to 4:40 pm on weekends (on weekdays, every 40 min. from 9:40 am to 4:10 pm). Bus fare is 500 yen for an all-day pass.

What’s new from last year are expanded tours of Odani Castle. Last year, the Odani Castle guided tours took you only to the Honmaru mound and back. This year, they offer longer optional tours which can take you as far as the summit of Mt. Odani (elevation 495 meters) and even 5-hour hikes to visit all the castle ruins along the mountain ridges or hike down to the adjacent valley where the castle lord and samurai normally lived. Even the basic tour has been slightly expanded to include visits to the Akao Yashiki residence site where Azai Nagamasa committed seppuku and to Nakamaru Toraguchi, a ravine right behind the Honmaru mound.

The basic tour (基本コース) takes 100 min. including roundtrip bus ride and costs 500 yen. The basic tours start at 9:30 am, 11 am, 12:30 pm, and 2 pm from the Sengoku Guide Station (which served as the Odani pavilion last year). There’s an additional tour at 3:30 pm from July 21 to Aug. 31. First you have to take the shuttle bus from Nagahama Station to get to the Sengoku Guide Station at the foot of Mt. Odani. Then take another bus (500 yen roundtrip) at the Sengoku Guide Station to go almost halfway up Mt. Odani taking about 5-10 min. They will take you to the Honmaru mound and back, an easy walk.

There are four Optional tours which require reservations by phone and at least five people in a tour group. If you don’t have five people, you could join another group going at the same time. Call and make reservations with the Sengoku Guide Station (phone: 0749-78-0300). The basic tours do not require reservations. The castle tour guides are Japanese-speaking only.

Here are the Optional tours (オプションコース) offered. They start at different times from the basic tours. To the cost, add 500 yen for the shuttle bus (roundtrip) to go up Mt. Odani from Sengoku Guide Station office at the foot of Mt. Odani.

  • Course A (Aコース): This guided tour goes beyond the Honmaru mound up to the Sanno-maru (山王丸). An easy hike and I recommend this tour if you have the time. The tour is 2.5 hours and 500 yen.
  • Course B: This guided tour goes up to Sanno-maru, then down to Shimizu Valley below before returning to the Sengoku Guide Station. In the valley, there are only stone markers showing the former sites of the castle palace, etc. The tour is 2.5 hours and 1000 yen.
  • Course C: This guided tour takes you to the summit of Mt. Odani (elevation 495 meters) and to the opposite mountain ridge to see more castle ruins. For hardcore castle fans. The tour is 5 hours and 1500 yen.
  • Course D: This guided tour takes you to the summit of Mt. Odani (elevation 495 meters), then down to Shimizu Valley. The tour is 5 hours and 1500 yen.

Map of Odani Castle and hiking paths. Guided tours start from the red "You are here" label on the right (現在地).

It’s possible to hike up Mt. Odani from the foot for free on your own, but I recommend taking the bus up and going with a guide (Japanese-speaking only). If you hike up on your own, be sure to follow the road and regular hiking path. Don’t enter any blocked-off path, etc. You shouldn’t wear high heels or slippers since there are gravel and rocky slopes. The basic tour doesn’t require hiking gear, but the longer optional tours require hiking shoes. There are no vending machines on Mt. Odani so bring our own food and drinks. In summer, there will be lots of flying bugs so a paper fan will come in handy.

shuttle bus

Central Nagahama shuttle bus route: Nagahama Station --> Nagahama Pavilion --> Kunitomo Gun Museum --> Azai Pavilion --> Sengoku Guide Station (foot of Odani Castle) --> Gift shops --> Nagahama Pavilion --> Nagahama Station

To visit Chikubushima, just walk 15 min. (or take a taxi) to Nagahama Port from Nagahama Station. The boat fare is 2,980 yen roundtrip and admission to Chikubushma is 400 yen. You don’t have to visit it during the expo since it won’t go away, but it is one of Shiga’s major sights.

Although the expo is not as big or popular as last year’s, it’s a decent effort to promote tourism. One vital element is the public transportation to the pavilions and sites. There are three separate shuttle bus lines for the expo. Each one charges a separate bus fare. There is no bus pass good on all three shuttle bus lines. The shuttle bus in Kinomoto (called Shichihon-yari Bus 七本槍バス) runs between JR Kinomoto Station and Mt. Shizugatake. The main shuttle bus (called Sengoku Bus 戦国バス) runs in central Nagahama from JR Nagahama Station to the Azai Pavilion (Azai Folk History Museum) and Sengoku Guide Station at the foot of Mt. Odani. The third shuttle bus line runs between the Sengoku Guide Station at the foot of Mt. Odani and the Bansho (番所) area almost halfway up Mt. Odani from where you can walk/hike to see the castle ruins. Also, the bus going up Mt. Odani will not run during June 1 to July 20 and on foul weather days. The exact shuttle bus schedule in Japanese is here.

There is no bus connecting Kinomoto and central Nagahama. You have to travel by train between Kinomoto and Nagahama Stations.

I’m still puzzled as to why they did not include the Ishida Mitsunari Birthplace and the Battle of Anegawa Site on the shuttle bus route. After all, the expo focuses on Nagahama-native Mitsunari (official mascot is Mitsunari-kun) as well as the Battle of Anegawa. However, these sites are still accessible by local buses from Nagahama Station. Nagahama Castle, a short walk from Nagahama Station, is not part of the expo either.

More photos of the expo here. (Or click on an image in this post.)

Official site here (in Japanese).

The shuttle bus from Nagahama Station makes a stop here for you to shop at gift shops. This was the main pavilion (Azai–Go no Drama-kan 浅井・江のドラマ館) at last year's expo. Now a gift and produce shop. Another gift shop next to this has the Go and Azai Sisters Memorial Hall exhibiting mementos from last year's expo. Click on image to see more expo photos.

Shiga treated to annular solar eclipse

Annular solar eclipse above Tokyo. Click on image to enlarge.

A large swath of Japan was treated to an annular solar eclipse at around 7:30 am on May 21, 2012. People in southeastern Shiga Prefecture joined the masses in Tokyo, Nagoya, and Osaka to view the rare annular eclipse over most of Japan’s Pacific Ocean side. The rest of Japan could at least see a partial eclipse. An annular solar eclipse occurs when the moon comes between the sun and Earth and casts a shadow on Earth. The moon is farther away from Earth than during a total solar eclipse, so it does not cover the sun totally, exposing only a solar ring. In Japanese, an annular solar eclipse is called kinkan nisshoku (金環日食), literally “devoured sun with golden ring.”

People in the southeastern half of Shiga Prefecture could see the annular solar eclipse with the perfect ring of fire. The area from Maibara to Otsu was close to the northern boundary of the annular shadow path. Beyond that in Nagahama and Takashima, people could only see a partial solar eclipse. The annular ring could be seen for about 5 minutes at the center of the annular shadow path which went through central Tokyo. The further away you are from shadow’s center, the less time the ring appears.

In Shiga, the ring appeared for a maximum of about 3 minutes depending on the location. It was around 3 minutes in Koka and Higashi-Omi starting at 7:29 am. People in central Otsu saw it for about 2 minutes from 7:29 am. In Maibara, it was about a minute or less at 7:31 am. Nagahama and Takashima were outside the annular shadow and could only see a partial solar eclipse (a crescent sun). The last time an annular solar eclipse occurred in Shiga Prefecture was 282 years ago. Gee, I wonder how they viewed it at the time, if they even knew about it.

I was in Tokyo and photographed the eclipse about 1.5 km from the shadow’s center so I had the maximum 5 minutes to view and photograph the ring. We were lucky to have fleeting breaks in the veil of clouds during the eclipse. The clouds actually made it look more dramatic. A cloudless sky would create a totally black background in the photo. The ring appeared at 7:34 am in Tokyo. The last time this occurred in Tokyo was 173 years ago in 1839. The next annular solar eclipse in Tokyo will be three centuries from now. Too bad about Mt. Fuji being totally fogged over. People up there saw nothing. Map of the annular eclipse path: http://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEgoogle/SEgoogle2001/SE2012May20Agoogle.html

It was also cloudy in Shiga at the time of the eclipse, but the sun did peep out of the clouds now and then and most got a chance to see the ring. Koka was the first to see the eclipse in Shiga starting at 6:17 am. Many school kids in Shiga went to school about an hour early and gathered on the school grounds to view the eclipse using solar eclipse sunglasses. Earth science students at Maibara High School used high-powered telescopes to successfully observe and photograph Baily’s beads which appear at the moment when the ring forms. Since Maibara is along the fringe of the annular shadow, it was a prime spot to view Baily’s beads. The students even appeared on national TV news that day on NHK at 7 pm.

The temperature dropped slightly by 0.6 C to 1 C in Shiga during the eclipse. The sky also became slightly darker during the peak, but it was still very bright. The photos look dark because of the dark filter on the lens. You cannot see the ring without a dark filter or solar eclipse glasses. Even at the peak of the eclipse, the sun was still a bright spot in the sky. Some people in Japan got married or engaged or gave a wedding or engagement ring to their fiance during the eclipse. To me, it looked like a heavenly angel’s halo without the angel. It certainly was worth getting up early to see it.

Hikone: A Journey in Time (manga review)

HikoneManga1

Hikone: A Journey in Time (cover)

The Hikone Board of Education has published a manga comic booklet in English titled, Hikone: A Journey in Time. Targeting tourists, the black-and-white manga explains about Hikone’s feudal history and cultural sights through the eyes of John, a fictitious 20-year-old lad from Michigan (Shiga’s sister state) visiting Hikone while staying with a Japanese family. The A5-size, 70-page booklet is available for 500 yen at the Hikone Castle Museum next to the ticket booth where you enter Hikone Castle.

The manga story starts off with John visiting Hikone Castle with his host family, the Tachibanas who have a 12-year-old daughter named Hana. A lightning bolt during a rainstorm transports John and Hana back in time to the year 1600 during the Battle of Sekigahara (in Gifu). A mysterious and beckoning cat named Toku serves as their time-warp tour guide as they witness the Eastern Forces’ Tokugawa Ieyasu defeat the Western Forces’ (and Shiga native) Ishida Mitsunari. Then they see Ieyasu’s major ally Ii Naomasa consequently awarded the domain of Hikone and his successors building Hikone Castle and the town. Ii Naosuke is also introduced as the Tairo (Chief Minister) of the Tokugawa government in 1858 who made the decision to open up Japan to the Western powers led by Commodore Perry (very good manga likeness).

Naosuke is later assassinated by radical samurai from Mito in 1860 while on his snowy way to Edo Castle’s Sakurada-mon Gate. Although the manga shows him being shot and stabbed in his palanquin, it does not show (nor mention) that he was also dragged out of his palanquin and beheaded.

Toku the talking cat then takes John and Hana to see Hikone’s cultural products like kotoyaki pottery and Takamiya jofu textiles and Korean emissary processions. John and Hana are later zapped back to the present day as the cat disappears. The manga continues with the legendary story of the maneki-neko or beckoning cat saving Ii Naotaka (3rd lord of Hikone) from a lightning bolt at Gotokuji temple in Tokyo. John also visits a butsudan Buddhist altar factory where Hana’s dad works. I wish they also mentioned that many of the butsudan parts are crafted elsewhere (such as in neighboring Maibara) and then assembled in Hikone.

The end of the book has short English articles about the Korean Road (along which the Korean emissary traveled in Hikone on the way to Edo), Hikone Castle being on the World Heritage Site Tentative List, Hiko-nyan (Hikone’s official mascot), and a list and map of cultural properties in Hikone. It doesn’t elaborate on Hikone Castle’s prospects of actually becoming a World Heritage Site which I think is a long shot. It has languished on the Tentative List for 20 years since Japan first nominated it in 1992. The manga is apparently part of a strategy to gain support for Hikone Castle’s designation as a World Heritage Site.

Actually, I think they should first push Lake Biwa’s designation as a national park (it’s a quasi-national park). It’s one of the world’s oldest lakes with unique native species and has a long satoyama history of people living and interacting with the lake. And besides Hikone Castle, there are numerous nationally historic, cultural, and scenic sites around the lake such Mt. Shizugatake, Anegawa River, Mt. Ibuki, Nagahama Castle, Lake Yogo, Azuchi Castle, and Harie.

The manga provides whirlwind/superficial coverage of Hikone’s history, so some important details are missing. But it does give the newcomer a good, if not amusing, idea of what Hikone is about. It’s good enough for me to buy a copy to give to friends visiting Shiga.

The booklet is an excellent attempt by a local Board of Education to reach out to foreign tourists, a very rare project indeed. All local Boards of Education should follow suit. After all, they are the ones who have the expertise in local history and culture. The tourist bureaus are not terribly interested in explaining about local culture and history (because they are not academics nor researchers) and don’t care so much about serving a minority (foreign) segment of visitors. When they do produce something in English, it’s usually pretty shoddy.

The Hikone Board of Education contracted Kyoto Seika University to produce the booklet. The manga was drawn by a graduate of the university, Kojima Eiyu (小島瑛由). He did a fine job. The English translation was done by a manga researcher at Kyoto Seika University International, Jessica Bauwens-Sugimoto, and the editing was supervised by Peter J. Morris, Executive Director of International Programs at the University of Shiga Prefecture (not to be confused with Shiga University, a national university).

Employing native English speakers was wise (compared to using machine translation or a Japanese translator), but the booklet still has too many typos and grammatical issues. Apparently, the translator and editor weren’t given a chance to proofread their work. Many Japanese in printing/publishing don’t understand that translators/writers need time to proofread their work. I bet it was a rush job and the translator had only the Japanese text to translate, without the benefit of seeing the manga cells. It’s like translating a photo caption without seeing the photo. It’s very difficult. The translator/editor should also be given adequate leeway to modify the English text/dialog to suit the foreign readership and convey the meaning accurately.

The booklet includes a separate insert providing a Japanese translation of the English dialog on each page. (It seems to be the Japanese source text that was translated into English.)

Some 3,000 copies have been printed for the first printing. According to the Shiga Hikone Shimbun, the production cost was 2.6 million yen (867 yen per copy) which means they are taking a substantial loss by selling it for so cheap at 500 yen. The BOE published it to mark the 75th anniversary of Hikone. For more information, call the Hikone Board of Education at 0749-26-5833.

If they will revise this manga for another printing, here are my suggestions/corrections (excluding typos and grammatical errors) for improvement:

  • On the booklet’s cover, instead of touristy photographs, why not have a large manga in color to indicate that it’s a manga booklet? It would be more eye-catching.
  • John’s dad is Japanese and mom is American. But the story does not play up this tidbit at all. His parents don’t say anything and we can only question his nationality.
  • The word “cool” is used too often.
  • The asterisk used to cite Japanese terms should appear at the end of the word, not above it.
  • Page 7 describes Hana as a “little girl.” I wouldn’t call a 6th grader “little.”
  • On page 7, delete “the” in “I especially love the castles.” (An example of a grammatical error.)
  • “City” need not be appended to “Hikone.” It’s not part of the city’s name (like Kansas City or New York City). Appending “city” would be necessary only if the name of the city is the same as the prefecture, such as Hiroshima, to prevent confusion. I also recommend teaching how to pronounce “Hikone.” Most Americans might pronounce it Hee-cone with a silent e.
  • Page 10 does not say where Uoya-machi  is and its relation to the castle.
  • Page 11 should mention that the Horse Stable and Tenbin Yagura are Important Cultural Properties. Too bad there’s no illustration of the Horse Stable’s interior. No mention of the Nishinomaru 3-story turret which is also an Important Cultural Property. It doesn’t show the exhibits inside Hikone Castle Museum. Should mention that the castle is a short walk from Hikone Station.
  • Page 14 says that you can walk around the outside balcony. This seems to be a mistranslation. It’s not about walking around the outside balcony (which we cannot do since the balcony is too small), it’s about the cornice-like balcony that goes around the tower. Also on the same page, “one can only climb up 1 or 2 meters” needs to be clarified/explained further.
  • The use of capital letters is inconsistent: For example, Hikone Castle and Hikone castle.
  • Page 16 should mention the other three castles (Matsumoto, Inuyama, and Himeji) which are also National Treasures.
  • Page 19 should caption the statue of Ii Naosuke.
  • Page 24 has “…East and West. Led by Ishida Mitsunari and Tokugawa Ieyasu.” This makes it look like Mitsunari led the East and Ieyasu the West. It should be vice versa.
  • Page 25 should mention where Sekigahara is. And that the battle sites can be easily visited from Sekigahara Station, not far from Hikone.
  • Page 36 shows Naosuke’s entourage leaving his residence near Edo Castle (or perhaps entering Sakurada-mon Gate). However, the text says that he met trouble as he was entering Sakurada-mon Gate. This implies that he was assassinated at or inside the gate or castle grounds. Not so. He was attacked soon after leaving his residence and well before they reached Sakurada-mon Gate.
  • The practice of breaking up a sentence into two (or more) speech bubbles doesn’t bode well in English.
  • Page 42 should explain the Noh illustrations.
  • Page 48 has mistranslations in the second cell. Hana asks, “So did many Westerners come to Japan?” Toku answers, “Actually, not at all. But for many years before, there were many visits from Korea.” This exchange should read, “Did only Westerners come to Japan?” and Toku answering, ”No, there were also Korean visitors from centuries before.” There were the Dutch at Dejima, so it’s not “not at all.”
  • Page 60 should mention that funa-zushi is the origin of sushi instead of “the only true fermented sushi in Japan.” (As if there are fake fermented sushi in Japan.)
  • “Hikonyan” should be spelled “Hiko-nyan.” Otherwise, people are apt to mispronounce it as “Hikon-yan,” for example.
  • 冊子の全体的の印象はよいですが、なんか英語訳が急いで作られた感じがする。スペルミス、文法のミス、説明不足、誤訳などが結構あります。もっと時間をかけて最終のチェックが必要。教育委員会の英文出版物としてもっときちんとした正しい英語が重要。英語を勉強している生徒たちに間違った英語・訳を普及させたくない。
    HikoneManga2

    Sample manga page from Hikone: A Journey in Time.

    Japanese translation insert (cover).

    HikoneManga4

    Sample Japanese insert page.

読売テレビに滋賀のGW祭りが紹介される

関西の読売テレビの番組が私が撮った滋賀の祭りの動画を放送されることになりました。

放送されるのは守山市のすし切り祭りと甲賀市土山のケンケト祭りの動画です。

放送日:2012年5月9日(水)

時間帯:午前5:20~8:00で、滋賀の祭り企画コーナーが流れるのは午前7:00ごろ。

番組名:読売テレビ「朝生ワイドす・またん!&ZIP!」

番組の「超スゴい衝撃映像SP」というコーナーで「滋賀の超オドロキ奇祭」が紹介されます。

(緊急ニュースなどが入った場合、流れない場合もございます)

関西(大阪、京都、滋賀、奈良、兵庫、和歌山)にいる人、時間ありましたら是非見て(または録画して)ください。

http://www.ytv.co.jp/cematin/

Yomiuri TV will introduce Golden Week festivals in Shiga Prefecture on a morning TV program on May 9, 2012 (Wed.).

They will air two of my Shiga festival videos: The Sushi-kiri Matsuri held in Moriyama and the Kenketo Matsuri held in Tsuchiyama, Koka.

Broadcast date and time: May 9, 2012, around 7 am.

TV program name: 朝生ワイドす・またん!&ZIP! (The program is from 5:20 am to 8 am.)

If you’re in Osaka, Kyoto, Shiga, Nara, Hyogo, or Wakayama, hope you can watch or record the program.