Shiga News – by Philbert Ono Rotating Header Image

January, 2011:

Sumo wrestler Nionoumi from Shiga

The January 2011 Hatsu Basho grand sumo tournament saw a newly-promoted Juryo wrestler named Nionoumi (鳰の湖). Nionoumi is from Otsu, Shiga Prefecture. His ring name (shikona) means Lake of the Grebe (“Nio” means grebe), in reference to Shiga’s official bird and Lake Biwa.

He belongs to the Kitanoumi Stable run by former Yokozuna Kitanoumi, one of sumo greatest yokozuna. Born in Dec. 1986, Nionoumi debut as a sumo wrestler in March 2002. He is about 173.5 cm tall and weighs 139 kg. During the Hatsu Basho tourney, NHK News (starting at 6:10 pm on weekdays) in Otsu broadcast his bouts every day and we held high hopes for him.

At age 24, he is still young enough to earn promotion to the top Makunouchi Division. It’s been quite  few years since the last time we saw a sumo wrestler from Shiga in the top two divisions of sumo.

Unfortunately, at the Hatsu Basho ending on Jan. 23, 2011, Nionoumi had a losing record of 5 wins and 10 losses in his Juryo debut. This means that he will likely be demoted back to the Makushita Division from his current rank of Juryo No. 12. Out of 15 bouts in a tournament, a sumo wrestler must have at least 8 wins to earn a promotion. Let’s hope Nionoumi bounces back and reaches Juryo and Makunouchi ranks.

See his official profile here:
http://sumo.goo.ne.jp/eng/ozumo_meikan/rikishi_joho/rikishi_2476.html

Update: Unfortunately, due to the yaocho bout-fixing scandal, the Japan Sumo Association has cancelled the Spring sumo tournament that was to be held in March in Osaka. We won’t be seeing Nionoumi until at least May (or later if the May tournament is cancelled too).

Go and Azai Sisters Expo

Azai pavilion: Azai–Go no Drama-kan (浅井・江のドラマ館)

In concert with NHK TV’s year-long Taiga Drama called Go–Himetachi no Sengoku (Go–Noble Ladies of Feudal Japan), Nagahama is holding a year-long mini expo called Go and Azai Sister Trio Expo (Go–Azai Sanshimai Hakurankai 江・浅井三姉妹博覧会) from Jan. 15 to Dec. 4, 2011. The expo spotlights the three Azai sisters (Chacha, Ohatsu, and Go).

The expo has three pavilions (see below) in three different locations: central Nagahama, Odani, and Azai. The three pavilions are linked with a shuttle bus that runs every 40 min. (weekdays) or 30 min. (weekends) starting from Nagahama Station’s west exit at 10 am on weekdays and 9:30 am on weekends and national holidays. (No bus service from noon to 1 pm or 1:30 pm.) The bus also stops at attractions between pavilions such as the Kunitomo Gun Museum. Each bus also has a bus guide. Bus schedule here.

The pavilions are open from 9 am to 5 pm. For adults (high school and older), admission is 750 yen for all three pavilions or 1,000 yen if you also want to use the shuttle bus between the three pavilions.

You can also pay admission separately for each pavilion if you will not visit all three. For junior high and younger kids, admission is about half price. Tickets are sold at each pavilion and at the tourist information counter in Nagahama Station. Unfortunately, none of the pavilions have English information.

Nagahama Kurokabe Rekishi Drama 50-saku-kan (長浜黒壁・歴史ドラマ50作館)
You may want to visit this pavilion last since it is the smallest and least important. You can easily drop by on your way home if you plan to go back to Nagahama Station. The pavilion is actually a small exhibition room in a shopping complex in central Nagahama (across from the Hikiyama Museum). Using panel displays and a small theater, the pavilion introduces the 50 NHK Taiga Drama TV series broadcast from 1963 to 2011. Incidentally, the very first NHK Taiga Drama, called Hana no Shogai, was about Hikone Lord Ii Naosuke. This pavilion opened earlier on Dec. 25, 2010. Admission 300 yen for adults. Shuttle bus service is provided from Nagahama Station’s West exit and to go to the next pavilion near Odani Castle, taking about 30 min.
Pavilion address/map: 滋賀県長浜市元浜町13-31 パウビル2階

Odani pavilion: Odani–Go no Furusato-kan (小谷・江のふるさと館)

Odani–Go no Furusato-kan (小谷・江のふるさと館)
Being near Odani Castle where the three Azai sisters were born, this pavilion focuses on the history of the Azai clan, the attack and fall of Odani Castle, and a small video theater showing a good video of the castle. There is also an impressive scale model of Mt. Odani with Odani Castle on it. There is bus service (500 yen) from this pavilion to Odani Castle during the warmer months when the road is not snowed in. The 5-min. ride takes you well up the mountain from where you can explore the castle remains (mainly stone walls). A guide will be on hand to show you around the castle remains (probably no English). Pavilion admission 300 yen for adults. Shuttle bus service is provided to go to the next pavilion in Azai, taking about 10 min. If you have time, you should also visit the Odani Castle Sengoku Historical Museum (小谷城戦国歴史資料館) a short walk away. Admission 300 yen (not included in the expo ticket price).
Pavilion address/map: 滋賀県長浜市湖北町伊部757-1

Azai–Go no Drama-kan (浅井・江のドラマ館)
In the area named after the Azai clan, this is the main pavilion and the most impressive of the three. It displays kimono worn by the actresses (Ueno Juri, Miyazawa Rie) and samurai armor worn by the actors playing Oda Nobunaga and Azai Nagamasa. There’s also a small video theater showing the making of a scene where the three sisters and Nagamasa and Oichi are filmed on Mt. Odani. Admission 500 yen for adults. Shuttle bus service is provided to go back to the pavilion in central Nagahama, taking about 20 min. There is also a large gift shop next to the pavilion, selling Azai sisters-related goods, guide books, and local produce. Do your gift shopping here.
Pavilion address/map: 滋賀県長浜市内保町2843

More expo photos here.

Official Web site (no English): http://www.azai-go.jp/

Also, during July 23 to Aug. 31, 2011, the Nagahama Castle History Museum will hold an exhibition on Go, displaying about 130 items related to Go. Her possessions, writings, etc.

The NHK Taiga Drama Go–Himetachi no Sengoku is broadcast in Japan on NHK General (Sogo) TV every Sunday night from 8 pm to 8:45 pm and rebroadcast on Sat. at 1:05 pm. The first episode will air on Jan. 9, 2011 from 8 pm to 9:15 pm.

NHK Taiga Drama: Go–Himetachi no Sengoku

This is to help you better understand the historical background of Go–Himetachi no Sengoku (江〜姫たちの戦国〜) which I translate as “Go–Noble Ladies of Feudal Japan.” The TV series will be broadcast on NHK Sogo TV from Jan. 9 to Nov. 27, 2011 every Sunday at 8 pm to 8:45 pm (except Jan. 9 when it will be broadcast from 8 pm to 9:15 pm) and rebroadcast on the following Sat. at 1:05 pm.

What is Go–Himetachi no Sengoku?
It is NHK TV’s year-long, historical drama TV series to be broadcast weekly in 2011 from Jan. 9 to Nov. 27, 2011 in Japan. This annual TV series is called NHK Taiga Drama which goes back 50 years to 1963. It is one of Japan’s most famous and popular TV series. Each year, a different Japanese historical theme is portrayed, most often based on Japan’s feudal period.

Go is the name of the main character, a daughter of a prominent samurai daimyo, Azai Nagamasa, who ruled northern Shiga Prefecture in the 16th century. Himetachi means princesses or noble ladies. And sengoku literally means warring states, in reference to Japan’s feudal period when civil wars were waged by samurai trying to conquer more territory and ultimately unify and rule all of Japan. Thus, the story focuses on Go as well as other ladies of that period who went through many ordeals during a most turbulent period of Japan’s history.

According to NHK, the story will mainly center on the love and bond between Go and her parents, her husbands, her sisters, and her children.

Who was Go?
Go (1573-1626), also called Ogo or Oeyo and Sugen’in in her final years, was the youngest of three sisters born to Azai Nagamasa (1545-1573), Lord of Odani Castle in northern Shiga (present-day Nagahama) and wife Oichi (1547?-1583) who was the younger sister of Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582). Born in Shiga’s Odani Castle, the three Azai sisters, called Azai sanshimai (浅井三姉妹), are perhaps Japan’s most famous or historical trio of sisters. Her oldest sister was Chacha also known as Yodo who at age 19 married Toyotomi Hideyoshi who was 51, and her other sister was Ohatsu who married Kyogoku Takatsugu.

Of the three sisters, Go has become the main character because she became part of a lasting dynasty in Japanese history by marrying the second Tokugawa Shogun Hidetada (1579-1632) and giving birth to the third Tokugawa Shogun Iemitsu (1604-1651). We can say that most of the Tokugawa shoguns have roots in Shiga since Go was born in Odani, Shiga.

With Hidetada, Go also had a daughter named Senhime (1597-1666) who married cousin Toyotomi Hideyori (son of Chacha and Toyotomi Hideyoshi) at age 6 and another daughter, Masako (1607-1678) who married Emperor Go-Mizunoo (1596-1680). Masako’s daughter became Empress Meisho (1624-1696). So we can say that even the Imperial family has roots in Shiga. How about that?

Thus, Go had Oda Nobunaga as an uncle, Toyotomi Hideyoshi as an adoptive guardian and father-in-law to a daughter, Tokugawa Ieyasu (the first Tokugawa shogun who unified Japan in 1600) as a father-in-law, a son who became the third Tokugawa shogun, and a granddaughter who became a reigning Empress of Japan. She lived through Japan’s turbulent transition from never-ending civil wars to a period of relative peace. Such blood connections to three of Japan’s most famous samurai and even to the Imperial Court makes her one of the most well-connected women in Japanese history. Great fodder for a year-long TV series, novels, comic books, etc.

One major storyline would also center on the siege of Osaka Castle in 1614-15 when Yodo (Chacha) and her son Hideyori residing in the castle were attacked by Tokugawa Hidetada and forced to kill themselves to extinguish the Toyotomi family. Sisters Yodo and Go were on opposing sides, and Ohatsu acted as an intermediary for a truce which was later broken by the Tokugawa.

Go was married three times, but her third marriage to Hidetada was the most significant. She also had other children (2 sons and 5 daughters total) like Tokugawa Hidenaga. But other than Iemitsu, Senhime, and Matsu-hime (Masako), they are pretty obscure. Go died at age 53 and is buried at Zojoji temple in Tokyo where many Tokugawa shoguns are buried.

What is the historical timeline?
1568: Oda Nobunaga’s sister Oichi marries Azai Nagamasa, lord of Odani Castle in northern Omi (Shiga Prefecture).
1569: First daughter Chacha is born in Odani.
1570: Second daughter Ohatsu is born in Odani.
1573: Third daughter Go is born in Odani. Father Azai Nagamasa is defeated by Nobunaga and commits seppuku in the castle. The three Azai sisters and mother Oichi escape Odani Castle.
1582: Oda Nobunaga is assassinated by Akechi Mitsuhide in Honnoji temple in Kyoto. Oichi marries Shibata Katsuie and moves to his Kitanosho Castle in Fukui Prefecture along with her three daughters.
1583: Shibata Katsuie is defeated by Toyotomi Hideyoshi at the Battle of Shizugatake in northern Shiga. Both Katsuie and Oichi commit kill themselves. Toyotomi Hideyoshi becomes the guardian of the three Azai sisters.
1584: Go marries Saji Kazunari of Owari Province (Nagoya, Aichi), but divorces him the same year as ordered by Hideyoshi after the Battle of Komaki/Nagakute where Saji was on the opposing side.
1587: Ohatsu marries Kyogoku Takatsugu.
1589: Chacha (now called Yodo and 51-year-old Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s concubine at age 19) gives birth to Tsurumatsu, Hideyoshi’s son. Tsurumatsu dies two years later.
1592: Go marries Toyotomi Hidekatsu, a nephew of Hideyoshi. He soon dies in battle during the Korean invasion.
1593: Yodo gives birth to Hideyori, Hideyoshi’s son.
1595: Go marries Tokugawa Hidetada, later the second Tokugawa shogun.
1597: Go gives birth to first daughter Senhime.
1598:  Toyotomi Hideyoshi dies.
1600: Tokugawa Ieyasu triumphs at the Battle of Sekigahara in Gifu, defeating western forces loyal to Hideyoshi.
1603: Ieyasu becomes shogun and moves to Edo Castle (Tokyo) and starts the Tokugawa Period. At age 6, Senhime marries Hideyori at Osaka Castle.
1604: Go gives birth to son Takechiyo (Iemitsu).
1605: Hidetada becomes the 2nd Tokugawa shogun.
1606: Go gives birth to son Hidenaga.
1607: Go gives birth to daughter Masako.
1609: Ohatsu’s husband Kyogoku Takatsugu dies, and she becomes a nun named Jokoin.
1614: During the Winter Siege of Osaka Castle, Ohatsu acts as an intermediary for peace between the Tokugawa and Toyotomi.
1615: During the Summer Siege of Osaka Castle, the Tokugawa extinguishes the Toyotomi clan by forcing Yodo and her son Hideyori to kill themselves.
1616: Tokugawa Ieyasu dies.
1620: Go and Hidetada’s daughter Masako joins the Imperial Court.
1623: Go’s son Iemitsu becomes the third Tokugawa shogun.
1626: Go dies in Edo Castle. Husband Hidetada dies in 1632, and sister Ohatsu dies in 1633.

Guesthouse AN, Otsu

Guesthouse AN cottage, great for 4 to 6 people.

Six-mat room in Guesthouse AN.

I recently visited Guesthouse AN in Otsu which opened as a backpackers’ hostel in Nov. 2010. I was invited by the proprietors Mr. and Mrs. Shuji Fujisawa. I had been meaning to write about budget accommodations in Shiga and Guesthouse AN was a good place to start.

Guesthouse AN is a short walk from Nakasho Station on the Keihan Line. Nakasho Station is about a 4-min. ride from Ishiyama Station. It makes it convenient to visit both Ishiyama-dera temple and Miidera temple which are on the Keihan Line. The guesthouse is in a quiet residential neighborhood with no large streets.

Guesthouse AN cafe on left and cottage on right.

Guesthouse AN has two adjacent buildings. The main house is where the proprietors live on the 2nd floor and operate a cafe on the 1st floor, and the actual guesthouse is a detached two-room cottage with a kitchen and bath. In front is a parking lot where you can park your car for free.

The cottage has two Japanese-style rooms with tatami mats, tokonoma alcove, and futons. The Western-style toilet/bath and fully-equipped kitchen are communal. Each tatami room has six tatami mats, large enough to sleep three people each. The two rooms are separated by paper sliding doors (fusuma) which do not lock. You can easily overhear the person staying in the next room. Conversations, snoring, etc.

On the other hand, if you are a group of four to six people, having your own cottage is great. There’s total privacy since it is a detached building and no other rooms. You can also open up the sliding doors in the middle and use it as one large room. You share the toilet, bathroom, kitchen, and free washing machine with only people in your group. It costs around 3,000 yen per person if you have one or two roommates. (Note that children age 7 or younger are not allowed to stay here.)

Being a backpacker’s hostel, the rooms have no telephone nor TV. But you can use the telephone, watch TV, and access the Internet for free in the cafe right next door. There are also two rental bicycles for an easy ride to Lake Biwa.

One-half of Guesthouse AN cafe. Notice Beatles posters.

The Fujisawas operate a cafe in the main house next to the cottage. The cafe is where you can have breakfast (optional), watch TV, and access the Internet for free. The cafe is open to the public on weekends and national holidays. Mr. Fujisawa spent some time in the UK and is a Beatles fan. You can see some Beatles posters and memorabilia on the walls in the cafe. Even his car has a Beatles decal on it. He can communicate in English on a basic level, and their Web site has an English version.

After showing me the cottage, Mr. Fujisawa and I had a long chat in the cafe over a cup of coffee his wife made with freshly-roasted coffee beans. I offered some PR advice and corrected some (not all) of his English on printed matter. I asked him what the meaning of “AN” was. There were multiple meanings, and one of them was “it begins with ‘a’ and ends with ‘n,’” in reference to the hiragana syllabary.

But I was most impressed by the Fujisawas’ desire to provide a community space in their own neighborhood where people can gather and meet. He says that there are quite a few people living alone (including the elderly) in that area and there was no place nearby where they could socialize. His own outreach initiative can help people lessen their isolation. He will also start holding a monthly vegetable market in their parking lot where local growers can sell their vegetables. Another way for people to interact and to also buy vegetables conveniently.

As far as hostels in Otsu go, Guesthouse AN is the most centrally located. It’s on the same train line as Hama-Otsu (boat cruises on Lake Biwa and shopping), Miidera, Ishiyama-dera, Gichuji temple, and Sakamoto/Enryakuji. Getting around in central Otsu is more convenient on the Keihan Line than the JR Line. Kyoto is also easily accessible on the Keihan Line from Hama-Otsu. Mr. and Mrs. Fujisawa are happy to welcome guests from overseas and eager to introduce the sights of historic Otsu.

You can see more photos and information at the Guesthouse AN Web site (http://shiga-an.com/) in English.

NHK Taiga Drama “Go” excites Shiga

The tourist industry in Shiga is abuzz and excited over NHK TV’s Taiga Drama for 2011 called Go-Himetachi no Sengoku (Go–Princesses of Feudal Japan 江〜姫たちの戦国〜) starting on Jan. 9, 2011 at 8 pm on NHK Sogo channel.

The NHK Taiga Drama is one of Japan’s most famous TV series, going back 50 years. Each year, a different historical theme is depicted in year-long, weekly episodes of 45 min. Most of the years have featured feudal-era Japan with well-known samurai appearing. But in 1984, Sanga no Moyu was about the Japanese-American internment in the US during World War II.

“Go” is the 50th NHK Taiga Drama. Shiga is abuzz over this because much of the historical background of “Go” takes place in Shiga. The main character, Go, was born in Shiga (Odani Castle in present-day Nagahama). The NHK Taiga Drama often brings national attention and free publicity to the areas where the story takes place. Thus, Shiga will be front and center during the whole year in 2011 in TV land. That is if you watch TV and are interested in history.

When the Taiga drama is really popular, it brings hordes of tourists to the places related to the drama and historical characters. More tourists means more money coming into the local economy. Thus the excitement in Shiga. It can also raise Shiga’s national profile which is quite low.

Shiga has been at work for well over a year to maximize and monetize this grand opportunity. For one thing, they will hold the Go and Azai Sister Trio Expo (江・浅井三姉妹博覧会) in Nagahama from Jan. 15 to Dec. 4, 2011. They will have three small pavilions in different locations in Nagahama. Details here.

Mascot characters for the three Azai sisters have also been created. The problem is, there are multiple versions and they all look different. It’s confusing and hard to tell who is who. There are also multiple Web sites about the TV series and Go. It seems a lotta people wanna a piece of the action, and the resulting PR efforts are fragmented as a result.

But with little doubt, this Taiga Drama is almost certain to boost Shiga’s national recognition. There is already much interest because “Go” centers on a woman instead of a man (like Sakamoto Ryoma in 2010). And one who went through many ordeals in life. The last Taiga Drama centering on a woman was Atsuhime in 2007 which was massively popular. With Go, NHK hopes to repeat the success of Atsuhime even by using the same writer (Tabuchi Kumiko) who wrote Atsuhime.

And if you go to a bookstore now, you can find a number of TV magazines and history mags featuring Go. NHK also has a special mook (magazine book) for Go.

I’ll be writing more about Go and the TV series here.

Related Web sites:
http://www.nhk.or.jp/go/
http://www.go-shiga.jp/
http://www.azai-go.jp/
http://www.nhk.or.jp/otsu/go/
http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/ff20101231r1.html

The NHK Taiga Drama Go–Himetachi no Sengoku is broadcast in Japan on NHK General (Sogo) TV every Sunday night from 8 pm to 8:45 pm and rebroadcast on Sat. at 1:05 pm. The first episode will air on Jan. 9, 2011 from 8 pm to 9:15 pm.